Между Парижем и Нью-Йорком. Трансатлантическая индустрия моды в XX веке

12

Perkins B. J. Paris Not Reflecting Country’s Trade Troubles // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. September 29. P. 8; They Can Use More Tourists Here // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. July 18. P. 4; Deschamps. La Crise. P. 39; Budgets Cost of a Buyer’s TriP. P. 6.

13

Le 18e au goût du jour, guide de l’exposition. Paris: Musée Galliéra, 2011. P. 14; Augustabernard Reorganization Being Planned // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 4. P. 1; Augustabernard to Close Couture Firm // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 5. P. 28; Deschamps. La Crise. P. 75–77; Perkins B. J. House May Close and Reopen on Smaller Scale // Women’s Wear Daily. 1934. October 10. P. 5; Numéro du greffe (registration number) 50211, Jugement déclaratif du 24 août 1934, Aine Montaillé société anonyme au capital de 850,000 francs, 1, Place Vendôme, cloture pour insuffisance d’actifs, D10U3117, CPA.

14

Unsigned document, 9 June 1942, Paris, F12 10503, FNA.

15

Questionnaire relatif à la classification Couture création, January 1952–1954, F12 10504, 10505, FNA; Garnier. Paris-couture. P. 98; Perkins B. J. Robert Piguet to Show First Collection Soon // Women’s Wear Daily. 1933. September 29. P. 8.

16

Speaker: Miss Lilian Fisher, Paris Fashion Representative of Bonwit-Teller // Luncheon Meeting Minutes, 29 June 1932, 16, folder 7, box 72, FG, NYPL; Garnier. Paris-couture. P. 122; The Dressmakers of France // Fortune. 1932. August. P. 76. Vogue (US ed.). 1931. January 1. P. 45; Swinney J. B. Merchandising of Fashions. New York: Ronald Press, 1942. P. 40–41; Millstein G. Mainbocher Stands for a Fitting // New York Times. 1956. March 25. P. 42; Kidwell C. B., Christman M. C. Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution, 1974. P. 193.

17

Evans. Mechanical Smile; Simon. La haute couture. P. 137; Perkins B. J. Couturiers’ Terms Balk US Capital // Women’s Wear Daily. 1929. April 11. P. 5; Bergdorf Archive, Andrew Goodman file, x-20, 51. P. 13–14; Gladys Marcus Library, Special Collections, FIT. Herndon, Bergdorf’s on the Plaza.

18

Perkins B. J. Says Couture Background Helps in Couture Business // Women’s Wear Daily. 1930. June 26. P. 5; Mooney S., Scaturro S. Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier 1918–1948 [Каталог выставки]. New York: Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, 2006. P. 8; Patou, Inc., May Open in 2 Months // Women’s Wear Daily. 1930. May 19. P. 6; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. April 12. P. 4.

19

L’Officiel. 1937. September. P. 77.

20

Société anonyme Lucien Lelong, statuts, Paris, 1925, 1–32, H1137, Lucien Lelong, ANMT. Dartey Lucien Lelong. L’art de la robe // La Renaissance de l’Art Français et des Industries de Luxe. 1927. January; Lucien Lelong File, UCAD; Pratt D. L. Meet M. Lucien Lelong, French without Frills // Women’s Wear Daily. 1937. September 8. P. 7; Perkins B. J. Glimpses of Paris // Women’s Wear Daily. 1939. February 15. P. 4; Swinney. Merchandising. P. 41; Dressmakers of France. P. 72, 76; Mooney and Scaturro, Modern Master. Grumbach D. Histoires de la mode // Paris: Editions du Regard, 1993. P. 168.

21

M. Lelong’s Visit to the United States // L’Officiel. 1925. November. P. 15.

22

L’Officiel. 1926. November. P. 17.

23

Rouff M. L’Amérique au microscope // Paris: Edition des Portiques, 1933. P. 22; Garnier P. Paris-couture. Roger, L’ennemi américain: Généalogie de l’anti-américanisme français. Paris: Seuil, 2002; Grazia V. de. Irresistible Empire: America’s Advance through 20th-Century Europe. Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2005.

24

L’Officiel. 1935. August. P. 18; La mort de Jean Patou // L’Officiel. 1936. April. P. 33; L’Officiel. 1937. September. P. 54.