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Food for Free
Elderberries are useful as additions to a number of cooked recipes, in which any unpleasant aftertaste completely disappears.
The berries are ripe when the clusters begin to turn upside down. Gather the clusters whole by cutting them from the stems, picking only those where the very juicy berries have not started to wrinkle or melt. Wash them well, and strip them from the stalks with a fork. They are good added whole to apple pies, or added as a make-weight to blackberry jelly. (Both berries are on the bush at the same time, so if you are making this they can be gathered straight into the same basket.)
My favourite elderberry recipe is for Pontack sauce, a relic from those days when every retired military gentleman carried his patent sauce as an indispensable part of his luggage. Finally, one elder enthusiast enjoys eating, so to speak, the flowers and the berries at the same time, by making a sorbet from the fresh flowers, and serving it with another sorbet, made with the last year’s autumn berries – a conceit impossible before the days of the deep freeze.
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© Chris Mattison/FLPA
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© David Hosking/FLPA
Elderflower and gooseberry preserve
To make the preserve, trim off as much of the rather bitter stalk as you can, and have ready four flower heads for each 500 g (1 lb) of gooseberries. Top, tail and wash the gooseberries, and put them into a pan with 500 ml (1 pint) of water for every 500 g of fruit. Simmer for half an hour, mashing the fruit to a pulp as you do. Add 500 g of sugar for each 500 g of fruit, stir rapidly until dissolved, and bring to the boil. Then add the elderflowers, tied in muslin, and boil rapidly until the setting point is reached. Remove the flowers and pot in the usual way. (See for a few extra notes on jams and jellies generally.) The flavour is quite transformed from that of plain gooseberry jam, and reminiscent of Muscat grapes. It is good with ice-cream and other sweets.
Elderflower cordial
This cordial will keep for six months, or you can freeze it as ice cubes or in plastic bottles (leaving room for expansion).
1 lemon
25 g (1 oz) citric acid
1 kg (2 lb) sugar
10 elderflower heads
750 ml (1½ pints) water
• Put the sugar in a large bowl and pour on the boiling water. Stir to dissolve.
• Grate the lemon rind, and slice the fruit.
• Add the grated lemon rind, lemon slices, citric acid and flower heads to the water.
• Leave for 24 hours, stirring occasionally.
• Sieve through muslin, pour into clean bottles and seal with screw-top caps.
Elderflower fritters
A perfect and delicately flavoured finish to a summer meal.
4 tablespoons flour
1 egg
1½ cupfuls water
Elderflower heads (retain short stalks for dipping)
Oil for frying
Fresh mint
Sugar for dusting
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