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If you have a poor score because you have not had credit in the past, take out a credit card and use it for day-to-day shopping for a few months. Set up a direct debit to clear if off in full every month. Don’t just pay the minimum payment, but don’t max it out either: the perfect amount of spending is about 10 to 30 per cent of your credit-card limit. It demonstrates that you can borrow sensibly without losing the plot with all this lovely free money. A monthly credit-card balance below 30 per cent can gain you 90 points on your credit score, according to Experian, which scores from 0 to 999. A score of around 780 is fair, one of above 961 or higher is excellent. A card balance above 90 per cent will cost you 50 points.
• ADD RENT TO YOUR CREDIT HISTORY
You can now ask for rental payments to be added to your Experian credit score to demonstrate that you are a reliable rent-payer. Not all banks take this into account yet, but there are hopes that this will slowly start to change, so it is worth doing.
The Rental Exchange scheme records your rental payments and sends the results to Experian. You need to actively sign up to do this by paying your rent through a company called Credit Ladder, which then passes on your money to your landlord or letting agent, so run this past your landlord to check that they are happy with it first. Equifax and Callcredit don’t yet consider rental payments.
• DON’T APPLY FOR OTHER STUFF
Don’t be over-keen. Applying for too many accounts and loans in a short space of time does not go down well. If you can, avoid applying for anything (mobile phone, credit card, bank account) within six months or so of applying for your mortgage.
• BREAK UP WITH YOUR EX
Break any links to ex-partners and former flatmates with whom you have shared joint accounts or joint bills. If you are still wrongly linked on your report, contact all three agencies to ask them for a ‘disassociation’. Contrary to popular belief, just living with someone else who failed to pay their bills on time will not damage your credit file, but if you were financially tied to them then their poor credit history will reflect negatively on yours (conversely their excellent credit history reflects well on you). Bear this in mind before you open any kind of joint financial product.
• PAY ALL YOUR BILLS ON TIME
Make sure you do not default on any household bills. Credit reports include information from, for example, your gas, electricity, insurance and water supplier. Any defaults, even if you failed to pay just £5, stay on and damage your report for six years.
Missing your last payment on an account will cost you about 130 points according to Experian; receiving a default, when an account is passed to debt collectors, or getting a court judgement, will cost you more than 250 points. These things fade over time, though: after three years you will lose fewer points for them. If there are any mistakes on your report, or any defaults that you think are unfair or misrepresent you, then you can ask the credit-reference agency to investigate them and add a note of up to 200 words (known as a notice of correction) on your file to put them right. Lay out why you feel they are unfair, or why your circumstances have changed. For example, you might write that you missed a bill because you had lost your job, but you are now fully employed and back to paying bills on time.
• REDUCE YOUR DEBTS (BUT DON’T WORRY ABOUT STUDENT LOANS)
Pay down any debt you have as much as possible before applying for a mortgage: lenders will look at your ‘balance trend’ as part of credit scoring. This does not include student loans. Arguably you would be better off boosting your deposit than using savings to pay down any student loan. See the next chapter for more on why.
• BE CAREFUL ON FACEBOOK
There have been stories that banks take what you post on social media into account. This is hard to prove, but Andrew Montlake, of the mortgage broker Coreco, told me that he would suggest those looking to apply for a mortgage should be careful about what they share. ‘Gambling stories, wild nights out and lavish spending boasts should probably be avoided.’ Also avoid sending or receiving cash to your bank with ‘banterous’ references. Banks have rejected people based on ‘drug money’ appearing on their statements, even if it is obviously a joke.
• DO NOT GET A PAYDAY LOAN
For some banks payday loans are also an absolute credit-score killer. Some banks will not lend to you at all if you have taken out a payday loan, others are less fussed. But best not to go anywhere near Wonga at least a year before you apply for a mortgage if you can help it. Ideally never go anywhere near Wonga.
• GET A COPY OF YOUR OLD REPORT IF YOU HAVE MOVED TO THE UK FROM ABROAD
If you have moved from abroad, bring a copy of your credit record from the main agency in your home country to the UK, then contact Experian, Equifax and Callcredit and ask them to put a note on your file that you are willing to provide a copy of your credit history. Monese offers bank accounts to people who have no proof of address, maybe because they have no credit record in the UK and therefore their name is not on a utility bill.
You have got a deposit and can afford a mortgage! So what is the process of buying a house?
You spot a house you like advertised with an estate agent. You work out whether you can afford it and stamp duty based on whether you can get a mortgage. You can at this stage get a ‘mortgage in principle’, which is a non-binding agreement stating how much, based on your income, outgoings and credit score, a bank will lend you. If all looks good, you put in an offer for the property, which is hopefully accepted by the seller. You then appoint a property lawyer to start what is called the conveyancing process. You find the mortgage you want – it doesn’t have to be with the same bank that gave you a mortgage in principle – and apply for it for real.
Once the sellers have accepted your offer there is still no guarantee that they will definitely sell to you, just a ‘gentleman’s agreement’. There is a chance that you could get gazumped. That’s where another seller swoops in with a higher offer, and a greedy seller dumps you for the new bidders. Gazundering is where you, the buyer, lower your offer just before exchange of contracts. There is nothing other than your conscience, and the risk of pissing off the seller, who may pull out, to stop you doing this, but all the same, better not to – bad karma.
Cross your fingers you do not get gazumped, and insist that the person you are buying from takes down the online or estate-agent advert for their home (the estate agent probably will not do this unless you force them to). In Scotland an offer being accepted is legally binding, sometimes subject to a mortgage being approved, so you are unlikely to be gazumped, or pull out once you have put your offer in.
Your bank will carry out affordability and credit-score checks and then, with a mortgage-valuation survey, on the property you want to buy. This survey is not the same as a building survey, which checks whether the house is in good condition. You need to set this up yourself.
Meanwhile your solicitor will be carrying out checks too, on things like whether your property is on a floodplain. You have to pay for these. Press your solicitor for these to be completed quickly.
When you have received your mortgage offer and your solicitor is ready you can exchange contracts, a process carried out between your own and the seller’s solicitor. At this stage you normally need to pay 10 per cent – sometimes, if you negotiate, 5 per cent – of the price of the property you are buying to your solicitor, who passes it on to the seller’s solicitor. Make sure you have this money ready to be transferred out of your bank account; some banks will require a few days’ notice.
Be super-careful about the accuracy of your solicitor’s bank details. There is a common fraud where solicitors’ email accounts are hacked by a fraudster who sends out an email to a buyer stating that the solicitor’s bank details have changed, or adding in false sort codes and account numbers. If in any doubt, call your solicitor to check again where you send the money. Once you’ve clicked send it’s gone, and you cannot get it back if you send it to the wrong place. I’ve seen this happen several times, and it is heartbreaking.
You also need, at this stage, to arrange buildings insurance, legally required as part of receiving a mortgage.
You agree a day of completion, on which you arrange to send over the rest of your home deposit, plus any fees owed to your solicitor, as well as stamp duty. Your solicitor will receive cash from your mortgage company and arrange to send this to the seller’s solicitor on completion day, at which point you receive the keys for your new home. Woohoo!
The many other costs of buying a house
When working out whether you can afford to buy you need to budget for all the many other unexpected costs that crop up along the way: stamp duty, legal costs, local authority searches, survey costs, mortgage arrangement fees, mortgage broker fees, buildings insurance, removal vans, and, only if you are selling too, estate-agency fees.
Need-to-knows: Stamp duty
This is the biggest cost of moving, a tax you pay on any property you buy in the UK. The tax is based on the price of the property you are buying, and is staggered in thresholds. For example, you pay 2 per cent of a property’s value on properties priced between £125,001 and £250,000; 5 per cent on properties worth between £250,001 and £925,000; 10 per cent on properties worth £925,001 to £1.5 million.
First-time buyers are exempt from paying stamp duty on any home worth below £300,000. If the property you want to buy is worth more than £300,000 but less than £500,000 you pay 5 per cent of any proportion between the two.
If you are buying with another person you both have to be first-time buyers, otherwise it does not count. There is an exception if only one person’s name is on the deeds, and that person is a first-time buyer, but only if you are not married. You are not a first-time buyer if you have already owned a property in another country, or if you have inherited a property. You also only get the exemption if you are buying a home to live in. It does not apply to buy to let, even if you have never bought a property before.
Conveyancing
You need a property solicitor or conveyancer to help you buy a house. Expect to pay fees in the region of £1,000 to £1,500. Having a solicitor who cracks on with the work and will answer your calls promptly will save you a lot of aggro, so a personal recommendation is probably the best way to find one. Failing that, The Law Society website’s ‘find a solicitor’ section lists conveyancers. You do not need to use a local solicitor. You could find a more affordable, reliable one from back home, even if you are buying in London, for example.
You will also need to pay your solicitor certain fees for Land Registry, which charges for changing the ownership of a home into your name, and local authority searches. Budget an additional £300 or so.
Finding a solicitor before you put in a house offer makes you look organized and committed and can help save precious time when an offer has been accepted and you want to exchange as soon as possible.
Surveys
When you get a mortgage your bank will want to check that the property you want to buy actually exists, as well as that it is worth the price you are going to pay for it: the bank does not want to lose money if it has to repossess. It will therefore carry out a mortgage-valuation survey, which you will probably have to pay for: a few hundred pounds. Do not make the frequently made mistake of relying on this as some kind of comprehensive survey of whether or not the house you are buying may fall down.
You need another building survey, by a qualified surveyor, or the less extensive homebuyer’s survey to check for damp or rot or Japanese knotweed or a ceiling that is about to collapse. You are not obliged to have one, but you may regret it if you do not and there are extensive problems in your new home.
Some are considered not worth the paper they are written on, however, so put some research into what kind of survey to go for, and whether it is worth it for the type of property you are buying. Expect to pay from £300 to well over £1,000, according to the HomeOwners Alliance. The Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors site (RICS.org) is a good starting point.
Mortgage brokers
First-time buyers will particularly benefit from using an independent mortgage broker or mortgage adviser who can help you wade through the different mortgage products that are out there. Brokers can also hurry along a lender and keep things progressing smoothly, filling out all application forms for you. Some brokers charge fees of from £300 to several thousand, others get commission from banks they match up to borrowers, either instead of or as well as a fee.
Broker London & Country does not charge a fee and promises that, though it gets commission, you do not get any worse a mortgage deal than you would if you went to the bank directly.
Do not be bullied into using an estate agent’s preferred adviser. You are under absolutely no obligation to meet their ‘in-house broker’, and it is illegal for estate agents to suggest that the price of the house you want to buy will go up unless you do. A word-of-mouth recommendation is often best, or you can search the website unbiased.co.uk for regulated advisers.
Brokers will try to recommend add-on products while arranging your mortgage – life insurance for example. You will find a better deal by searching elsewhere, so don’t feel pressured by any hard sell (see chapter 9 (#litres_trial_promo) for more on this).
Choosing a mortgage
What’s actually in a mortgage?
A mortgage is likely to be your biggest financial outlay for the next twenty to thirty years. Choose wisely and you save thousands of pounds. There are a lot of mortgages to choose from, however, so it’s not easy. A broker will help you navigate the market, but first understand what you are signing up for yourself.
How much a mortgage will cost you up front, when you first get accepted for one, and from month to month for the next few years, depends on what that mortgage ‘product’ is made up of and the length of its term. Most are a mix of capital repayment, interest, and arrangement fees. These fees are significant, sometimes several thousand pounds.
The ‘term’ is how long a period you are given to pay back your mortgage. Many are twenty-five years, though the first forty-year mortgages have started to appear. You can lower the amount you pay month on month by opting for a longer term, but longer terms accrue more interest over time. It is a balancing act.
Similarly a mortgage with the cheapest interest rate is not always the cheapest deal over the longer term. You need to work out whether lower arrangement fees mean that you may be better off with a slightly higher interest rate, or vice versa. Banks are clever at making an offer look more attractive with low advertised rates but ultra-high arrangement fees.
Also look out for flexibility. Can you overpay your mortgage without being charged fees if you expect a bumper pay rise in the future? Can you take any break from mortgage payments without penalty if, for example, you know there’s a period when you will see a dip in earnings?
Should you get a fixed-rate or a tracker mortgage?
• BUT FIRST, WHAT IS THE BASE RATE?
The base rate is the national interest rate set by the Bank of England, and it is to the base rate that high-street banks and building societies peg their mortgage rates (as well as their savings rates, see chapter 5 (#litres_trial_promo)).
Following the Crash, the base rate was cut to a historic low of just 0.5 per cent, where it stayed until 2016, when it fell even further to 0.25 per cent. Low interest rates can help to revive the economy, they are good for businesses – borrowing is cheaper – and should make citizens spend rather than save. It is rising at the moment slightly, but is still at record lows. Young first-time buyers have never known anything other than cheap interest rates on mortgages, but it may not always be this way. In 1990, the base rate was nearly 15 per cent, in 1980 it was 17 per cent.
Variable rates, pros and cons
When choosing a mortgage one of the biggest decisions is whether to get a variable rate, a tracker-rate mortgage or a fixed-rate mortgage.
A variable rate is fairly self-explanatory. The mortgage lender sets the price of its variable rate and may at any point raise it or lower it; variable rates will rise when the base rate rises, but banks may set them as they like. All lenders will have a ‘standard variable rate’ (SVR), which is their default product that you will revert to whenever the special deal you might sign up for, say a two-year tracker, ends.
The SVR is usually more expensive than the best mortgage deals on the market, so it pays not to sit on it for any length of time, though many people do. Recent research by mortgage broker Dynamo suggested that a third of people whose mortgage deal expired in 2017 spent forty-two days on the SVR, which cost an average of £371 more than they needed to be paying, in ‘procrastination penalty’.
A tracker rate is a variable-rate mortgage, but one that is actually pegged to the base rate. So for example you might have a tracker-rate mortgage of 1.99 per cent, which would work out at an interest rate of 2.49 per cent when the base rate is at 0.5 per cent, and rise to 2.99 per cent if the base rate rose to 1 per cent.
The cost of your mortgage rises proportionally with the base rate. You can sign up to a tracker with various different lengths: a lifetime tracker runs for the full term of your mortgage, say twenty-five years, or you could have a two-, three-, five- or ten-year tracker.
Fixed rates pros and cons
Fixed rates do not alter with the base rate. You lock into a specific rate for a set period – two, three or five years normally, but increasingly ten-year fixed rates have come onto the market. Whether you go for a variable or a fixed rate comes down to how much you want to bet on base rates rising or falling. Fixed rates are best for people who want the certainty of knowing exactly how much they must pay month by month for their mortgage for the next few years, but they may be slightly more expensive. You need to make a clear-eyed decision, because you will pay high exit fees to get out of your deal, whether it is fixed or tracker: as much as 5 per cent of your mortgage in what is known as an early repayment charge (ERC).
You may also be charged an ERC for paying off a chunk of your mortgage at once, for example, if/when you win the lottery. Some deals let you overpay a certain percentage a year if you can afford to, but there is a limit.
When weighing up your options, consider that every time you move deal you will probably have to pay arrangement fees. If you are signing up for an inexpensive-seeming two-year deal, factor in that you will have to soon pay out arrangement fees when it comes to an end and you want a new rate.
On the other hand the downside of signing up for a deal that is very long, say a ten-year fix, is that you may struggle to transfer it to a new house if you intend to move. Some mortgage deals are ‘portable’, but if your circumstances have changed since you took it out, or your bank does not like the look of your new place, you may struggle.
Watch out for any small print that allows a bank to put up its tracker rates even when the base rate does not rise. Some have a ‘collar’ that stops your rate falling too low if the base rate falls below a certain minimum.
Buying with the Bank of Mum and Dad (BOMAD): top tips and family mortgages
The Bank of Mum and Dad became the UK’s ninth-biggest unofficial mortgage lender, in 2017 helping to fund 26 per cent of all UK property transactions, on a par with Yorkshire Building Society, according to research by Legal & General. Of those under thirty-five seeking to buy in 2017, 62 per cent were being partially bankrolled by parents or other family members.
This has bred a new category of family mortgages. David Hollingworth, of broker London & Country, says you should not necessarily head straight for something badged up a first-time buyer deal – a normal mortgage might be cheaper or more appropriate. Nevertheless if you are struggling with a deposit there are some innovative solutions.
Barclays Family Springboard will lend as much as 100 per cent LTV as long as your parent will lock 10 per cent of the property price (i.e. the 10 per cent deposit they might otherwise have given you) in cash into a linked savings account as additional security. This means your parent keeps their cash in their name rather than giving it to you, and will be able to access it at a later date, within three years, assuming you make all your mortgage payments on time.
Post Office’s Family Link gives you the opportunity to take out two mortgages on two properties, 90 per cent LTV on the one you want to buy and 10 per cent against your parents’ home. You the buyer pay off both loans, but the 10 per cent one is interest-free, though you have to clear it within five years. You must be a first-time buyer to take advantage of this, and your parents must have an income of at least £20,000.
Aldermore has a similar concept, a Family Guarantee mortgage, again at 100 per cent LTV, which allows parents to use spare equity in their own home as security, rather than cash, as do Family Building Society and Bath Building Society. The major drawback of these is that your parents’ home is at risk of being repossessed if you cannot pay your mortgage, which could make for some tense Sunday lunches. They are also more expensive than conventional mortgages. If your parents can afford to give you cash instead, you will get a better interest rate.
If your parents or grandparents are giving you some or all of your deposit in cash, lenders will want to know whether it is a gift or a loan, and whether the money has any strings attached, such as having to repay them monthly. This will affect the perceived affordability of your mortgage and therefore how much you can borrow. A ‘soft loan’, which is where your parents expect to be repaid, but only when you sell your property, therefore no monthly repayments are required, is not a problem. Banks will often require a letter from your parents confirming that the money is a gift, or a ‘soft loan’.
First-time buyer schemes to help you buy (with or without BOMAD)
You can take advantage of the following options whether or not you have money from your parents. If you are saving up to buy your first home use either a Lifetime ISA or Help to Buy ISA and you get some free cash from the government. See more details in savings chapter 5.
Help to Buy Equity loan
This government scheme has been extended to run until 2021. The idea is to help those with small deposits to access bigger homes and better interest rates. By its terms, you have to buy a new-build property from an approved house builder, with a 5 per cent deposit, receiving a 20 per cent loan from the government. This means you can take out a 75 per cent LTV mortgage; those buying in London receive a 40 per cent loan, so they need borrow only 60 per cent LTV.
The 20 per cent loan is interest-free for the first five years, then you have to pay interest at initially 1.75 per cent, a rate which increases in line with CPI inflation (for more on what that is, see the savings chapter 5). In exchange, the government, like the bank, owns 20 per cent of your property. You pay this off if and when you move, or you can pay it off sooner if you have managed to save the money.
Your mortgage should be a lot more affordable because you have a lower LTV despite your small 5 per cent deposit. Typically monthly payments are reduced by a third compared with what you would be paying with a 95 per cent LTV. As a result many first-time buyers using Help to Buy have been able to afford a slightly bigger property. There is a limit on how much you can pay for your home. In England this is £600,000, in Wales, £300,000. In Scotland £200,000.
One of the downsides is, as some people who took out their Help to Buy loans five years ago are now finding, that if your property does not appreciate in price much you may struggle to repay the government stake and buy another home. If you sell you may find that you have gained little. Many will sign up for Help to Buy assuming that they will use the increased value of their property to remortgage and pay off the equity loan. There are also complaints that those who come to the end of their original Help to Buy mortgage term may struggle to remortgage on to a better deal; there are fewer Help to Buy eligible remortgage products available.
You can find more details on the Help to Buy website (helptobuy.org.uk).
Shared ownership
If you cannot afford a whole property you can actually buy part of one, from just 25 per cent of it to 75 per cent of it, through the shared-ownership scheme. You rent the rest from a housing association, as long as you earn less than £80,000, or if you are buying in London, £90,000. This is per household though, so combined income if you are a couple. You can search for eligible properties on sharetobuy.com.
Take a three-bedroom flat available in Cambridge. Its full price is £415,000 but you can buy a 30 per cent share in it for £124,500, which requires a mortgage deposit of just £6,225. Your monthly cost would be £1,407, made up of a £624 a month mortgage, rent of £666 and a service charge of £117. Sounds like just the solution, but there are a lot of catches with shared ownership, so do your research to see if it actually suits you.
First, that massive service charge. Though you own only, say, 30 per cent, you have to pay 100 per cent of the service charge, which is a monthly charge you pay the housing association for maintenance. Service charges are infamously expensive, and notorious for rising steeply. Likewise, rents on the proportion you do not own may also rise and become less affordable, though rents are less than would be charged on the open market – usually 2.75 per cent of the property value per year. You can start to buy more shares in the property, up to 100 per cent of the whole thing, in a process known as staircasing, but again, if property values rise you may not be able to afford to do this. Also you may be limited to how many times you can ‘staircase’, so you couldn’t for example buy just 1 per cent each year.
Shared-ownership mortgages come with higher interest rates than conventional mortgages. There are also certain restrictions on what you can do with your home because, really, you are still considered a tenant. You cannot sublet it, for example, which makes life a bit difficult if you have to move elsewhere for work. If you fall behind on rent there is the risk you will lose the property.
You can always sell and realize any gain you have made on the portion you own, supposing that house prices have risen, but the housing association has a right to find a buyer before you sell through the open market.
(#ulink_4bc1fa7e-550a-58d7-b4e3-ad9c1def1e4f)
Debt is a dirty word, so much so that a long time back the financial services industry rebranded it as the much more enticing ‘credit’. But although many of us often called ‘generation debt’ are up to our eyeballs in it, not all debt is created equal, or owed equally urgently. You should not unnecessarily freak yourself out about borrowing money to the detriment of its many positive benefits (your own flat, university degree, iPhone, car, good credit score) or of getting a decent night’s sleep.
Wrapping your head round how to borrow well is also one of the most efficient ways to avoid wasting money, which is why I think it is a topic worth addressing ahead of how best to budget, or start a savings account or pension. There is no point in having money set aside if you are paying out hundreds of pounds in interest on overdraft or credit-card debts because you have not managed to clear them quickly enough.
If you were to borrow £3,000 on a credit card, with an interest rate of 19 per cent (some credit cards now charge interest rates of over 50 per cent), and only make the minimum repayments, starting at £74 a month and reducing over time, it would take you twenty-seven years and seven months to pay it off, and you would have paid an additional £4,192 in interest in the meantime, highlighted the Financial Conduct Authority, the financial services industry regulator. That £3,000 would have cost you £7,192. If you could stretch to repaying £108 a month, by not saving until the debt was cleared, for example, you would get rid of it in three years, and pay £879 in interest. The debt would have cost you £3,879.
I will come on to how best to have and use credit cards, but, having dealt with mortgages, I’ll start with the second-biggest debt you are most likely to be juggling – a student loan. Ironically, that is the debt that should cause the least insomnia. I will then outline the debts that are far more pernicious, and how best to handle them in a way that helps you save money.
If you are mired in really messy debt with a bank or similar lender there are things you can do and people available to help you out of it, so please don’t let it harm your mental health. I have covered this in chapter 11 on money and wellbeing.
Student loans
Putting aside all the controversial politics of whether or not students should have to pay tuition fees, and the rising cost of living at university, you have to admit that student loans have suffered from a shocking PR job. We have all read the news reports about bright young people being forced into £50,000 of ‘debt’ that they will be lumbered with for the whole of their twenties, thirties and forties, at least. While this is technically true, the implications are often misunderstood. The connotations of the dirty D word can be dangerously offputting, especially if you have grown up in a household stalked by debt, or cannot rely on BOMAD to bail you out.
