Talks About Flowers

The Dracæna is a good house plant, a good balcony and veranda plant, good for the vase in the open air, and in a handsome pot is a fine ornament for table decoration. Its culture is of the simplest kind, adapting itself to any ordinarily good soil, it only requires to be supplied moderately with moisture and to have a temperature ranging upward from sixty-five degrees. It delights in a moist air, and whenever possible, water should be kept where it will rapidly evaporate, and thus ameliorate the atmosphere in this respect for the plant. This condition, moreover, is conducive to the well-being of most plants, and no good plant-grower can disregard it with impunity. Washing the leaves and stem of the plant frequently with a wet sponge, is favorable to its health and vigor, and one of the best preventives of the attack of insects. With dust on the leaves the plants look dingy, while frequent washing keeps them bright and lustrous.

Dracæna indivisa has long, slender, dark green leaves, about three-quarters of an inch or an inch in width, and from two and a half feet to three feet in length, and the lower ones especially are very much recurved or gracefully drooping. This species is among the hardiest of the Dracænas, and is frequently wintered in the open ground, with some protection in climates where the temperature frequently descends several degrees below the freezing point.

Dracæna terminalis is the most popular of the whole family in this country, and is worthy of all the admiration bestowed upon it. The leaves are broader and more erect than those of the preceding species, and of a dark green suffused with red, or having streaks of a reddish color; the young leaves nearly pink, but assuming a dark bronzy copper color afterward. It is a very distinct and showy plant, and adapted to a great variety of ornamental purposes. The propagation and sale of it is rapidly increasing every year, and it is already widely disseminated. At the Sandwich Islands it is cultivated to a considerable extent for its roots, which are baked and eaten. A fermented beverage is also made from the juice, and its leaves are employed as fodder for cattle, and for clothing and other domestic purposes.

Dracæna Shepherdii is of a most noble form, and is one of the finest yet in cultivation. It has long, spreading leaves, of a metallic green, with stripes and border of bronzy-orange, and is a very free grower. Unlike most of the forms already known, which color most on the free young growth of vigorous plants, this plant takes on its distinctive coloring gradually on the older leaves.

Dracæna cannæfolia is an interesting species. Its peculiarity consists in the length of petiole, which is as long as the rest of the leaf. The blade of the leaf is elliptical in form, from fifteen to twenty inches in length, firm, and of a glaucous green.

Within a few years past much attention has been given by cultivators in Great Britain and Europe to hybridizing the Dracæna, and producing new varieties. The most remarkable success has attended the efforts in this direction, of Mr. Bause, in the establishment of Mr. Wills, of Anerly, England. The variety is wonderful—"broad-leaved, medium-leaved and narrow-leaved; bronzy and green, crimson, rose, pink, violet and white variegations; drooping, spreading, and erect habits, are blended in all sorts of combinations."

One of the sorts produced is described as "a most important acquisition, having quite the habit and character of the well-known favorite terminalis, but with white variegation. The ground color is a bright green, with bold, white variegation, the upper leaves being white, with here and there a bar of green."—Vick's Magazine.

DRACÆNA GOLDIANA

Sent out in this country for the first time in 1880, is said to be "one of the most magnificent ornamental foliage plants ever introduced, and altogether unique in character and aspect. It is a native of Western Tropical Africa. The plant is of erect habit, and the stems are closely set with stalked spreading leaves, the petioles of which are of a grayish color, terete with a narrow furrow along the upper side, the base being dilated and sheathing the stem. The blade of leaf is marbled and irregularly banded with dark green and silver gray in alternate straight bands, the colors being about equally distributed. The back of the unfolded leaves is a pale reddish-purple or wine color, and the stem, where visible. It is, without doubt, one of the most superb of ornamental stove plants."

When first sent out in London in 1878, its price was from five to ten guineas per plant. We do not know the price in this country. Mr. H. A. Dreer who has an illustration of it in his catalogue, furnishes the price only on application, which is evidence that it is costly. From the type given, it must be exceedingly handsome, and wholly unlike any Dracæna before offered in America.

Dracænas, as we have noticed before, are particularly desirable house plants, keeping in good condition for a long time, even in rooms where gas is burned—places so unsuited to most plants. They are liable to attacks of the Mealy Bug and the Red Spider if neglected, but the syringing and sponging advised for them will effectually prevent their gaining a foothold if frequently and thoroughly performed. After a year or two the plants begin to lose their lower leaves, and to get leggy, a state of things quite undesirable, as the beauty and effectiveness of the plants depend upon their being furnished with leaves down to the base of the stem. When the plants have become unsightly from the loss of their leaves, they can be renewed very quickly by a simple process. Cut a notch in the stem, on one side, just below the lowest good leaves, and take out a piece of the wood, then do the same on the other side of the stem, but not exactly opposite the first notch. The object is to check the flow of sap at this point and yet allow enough of it to pass to maintain the head. Having cut the notches, take some moss or sphagnum and bind about the stem, covering the incisions and fastening it on securely with twine or fine wire; the moss is to be kept gently moist, and in the course of two weeks will have thrown out young roots above the notches. The head can now be severed from the stem and potted in a medium-sized pot. After keeping it a few days in the shade, it can be gradually brought out into the full light, and will be found to be established.

Dracænas may also be multiplied by removing the thick, fleshy root that may usually be found in the base of the plant. Those tuberous roots can be potted, and if kept in a warm place will soon start and make new plants. When plants are re-potted a favorable opportunity is offered for taking off these roots, for the roots of the old plants are actively at work and, with the fresh soil they receive, will soon recover from any slight check they may have received.

The most rapid method of propagating this plant is by cuttings of the stem; the stem may be cut into pieces an inch in length, and those pieces split in two, and all of those bits will root and become plants. They should be placed in a light, sandy soil, and given a brisk bottom heat of 70° or 80° degrees. They will break and start into growth in a few days.—Vick's Magazine.

So fully does the foregoing express all that is needful regarding the Dracæna, we have thought best to give it entire. We might greatly enlarge on the subject of Ornamental Foliage Plants, and speak of the beautiful Palms, so fine for decorative purposes, the pretty Ferns and elegant Aralias, of which latter "Sieboldi is a capital house plant, so enduring that it will live and keep its beautiful dark green color for weeks almost in the dark." Then there is the Euonymus, so bright with its glossy green leaves, long a favorite whether for the border or window garden. Argentea has striped foliage, and Japonicas aurea has its dark green foliage diversified with golden variegations. Bicolor, foliage almost white, and Tricolor, a rarer form, is marked with pink and white.

With the numerous varieties we have named, it will be apparent how ornamental our gardens, whether within doors or without, may be made by plants, the beauty of which is wholly independent of flowers, and they do wonderfully enhance the effect of the bloomers. The Centaureas and Cinerarias with their deeply lobed leaves of white, are too well known to need any special mention. We do not intend however to pass so lightly over another stately and highly ornamental genus that comes within the reach of everyone. Ricinus, the seed of which can be purchased for a dime, are magnificent in foliage, and when combined with the brilliant colored fruit of the giant varieties, the effect is very oriental. Ricinus Africanus albidus is of recent introduction. It is white fruited, and the stems and leaves are silvery; height eight feet. Borbaniensis arboreus has very large and showy foliage; height fifteen feet. Communis is the Castor Oil Plant. Sanguineus (Obermanii) bears splendid red fruit in clusters, and is very ornamental. A species from Phillippines has gigantic foliage; height ten feet. These can be purchased in separate or mixed packets, and we advise everyone who has a bit of ground to try them. We will close with

A BIG BEAN STORY

I have just harvested my Ricinus or Castor Bean, which I raised from the seed you sent me last spring. It was of mammoth growth, attaining a height of fourteen and a half feet, and sixteen feet across the branches of which there were seventeen after cutting off five during the summer. Each of the branches contained a cluster of burs, the center one having one hundred and thirty-four burs, the other branches not so many. Many of the leaves measured from thirty to thirty-two inches across from tip to tip or point of leaves. When sawed off at the ground, the body measured five inches and a half of wood in diameter, inside of the bark, which was one-fourth of an inch thick. This is a big bean story but nevertheless a true one.—T. G. T. in Vick's Magazine.

A Talk About Primroses

IT is an old adage that one must take Time by the forelock. In the culture of flowers, we must certainly do so, planning and preparing in spring for the coming winter, if we would secure for ourselves plants that can be relied on for blooming. We know of none equal to

THE CHINESE PRIMROSE,

for common house culture, commencing to flower usually in November, and continuing through the spring months. The seed for this ought to be sown in April—if later the plants will not come into bloom so early. The soil for Primroses in all stages should be fine, light and rich, with a good mixture of sand.

For seed sowing it can be put in pans, boxes or six inch pots. First, put in drainage—I use for this coarse sand—then the coarse siftings of the soil. On this to the depth of one and a half or two inches, put the fine mixed soil, press down smoothly and spray lightly with tepid water. Sow the seed on the surface, and sift on enough of the fine earth to partially but not fully cover them. Cover with a glass, or with a bit of soft nice flannel, and place in the shade where a mild moist temperature can be attained. Where flannel is used, it can be kept damp and thus impart moisture to the seeds without their being saturated, washed bare, or displaced by spraying. When the seed has germinated, then glass can be substituted. The tender seedlings must be gradually brought to the sunlight; too long exposure at first would kill them, and if kept in the shade too much they will become drawn and dwarfed. This is the critical period, and many fail at this point. Great care is essential till the plants put forth the third leaf, which is rough and the true primula leaf. Then the plants must be carefully transplanted into other pots prepared as before. In about a month the glass can be removed and the plants potted separately, setting them low, as it is a peculiarity of the Primula to stretch itself up out of the soil, and become shaky. It is necessary sometimes to give them support. In watering, care must be had to prevent the water lodging in the axils of the leaves, which cause them to decay. They will not bear showering like smooth surfaced plants, and only occasionally should they be sprayed through a fine hose. They must be kept during the summer months in a shady place, and have a cool bottom to stand on; a cold frame is the best. They must be housed by the end of September, and the best situation for them is a light, airy shelf near the glass, yet not exposed to intense sunshine. They do not like frequent changes of position and temperature, nor to be grown with other plants. Give them a cool place where they will have the morning or afternoon sun for a time. During the blossoming season stimulate the soil once a week with liquid manure, or water with a few drops of ammonia added. Pick off all flowers as fast as they fade. Plants are stronger and better the second year, and unless they get too shaky, are good for three years. They must, after blossoming, be taken out of the pot, the ball of earth reduced from the roots, and then re-potted in fresh soil. It is not needful to keep them dormant and shaded through the summer, but in a cool and partially secluded position, they will after a brief rest begin to grow, putting forth frequently little crowns all around about the old one, and be full of blossoms during the autumn and winter months. The double varieties are not so easily grown, and cannot be recommended for general culture to be raised from seed. Fine plants can be procured from the florists, but the large single sorts, we think give the most satisfaction. Ellis Brothers, Keene, N. H., have sent us for trial, packets of very fine strains; some are rare, and, judging from the description, must be very beautiful. It is not often that we find more than four varieties named in the catalogues. They send out a dozen sorts, some of which we will name: Primula Fimbriata Kermesina Splendens; Large flowers, brilliant velvet like crimson, yellow eye. Primula Frimbriata Punctata Elegantissima; a new variety; flower velvety crimson, edge spotted with white; very distinct. Primula Fimbriata Striata; beautifully striped. Primula Fringed, Fern Leaf; pure white, with large citron eye; very fine. Primula Globosa, new; a large flowering, fringed sort; petals large and many of them crimped, each overlapping the other, so that they appear almost semi-double; colors white, light pink, crimson and lilac pink. All of these can be bought in mixed or separate packets. We cannot find room for all of these, but hope from the rarest to obtain some fine plants to brighten our room the coming winter. Great advances have been made since the Primrose was introduced into this country little more than half a century ago.

Of the novelties we find in the London Garden special mention made of Primula Sinensis Fimbriata Alba Magnifica. The writer says: "The Primulas from Mr. B. S. Williams' Victoria Nurseries, Holloway, were remarkably fine. The newest sort shown, Alba Magnifica, promises to be an excellent kind; the flowers are large, produced in dense and many flowered trusses, borne well above the foliage, which is also remarkable being elegantly crisped at the margins. The color is white, the purity of which, however, is more strongly marked when the plants are more mature than those shown; the habit of growth is very robust."

Of this novelty Mr. H. Cannell says: "The new white Primula is of exquisite form and substance; the plants are exceedingly compact, with deeply indented leaves of a light green color; the flowers measure two and one-quarter inches in diameter, pure white, with large, bright yellow eye, each petal being deeply and beautifully fringed, and are borne in large trusses well above the foliage."

We give an illustration of this Primula, kindly furnished by Ellis Bros., who are of the first to offer it in this country.

CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES

"What is the difference between them? I am told differently by nearly every florist I ask. An old Englishman told me the other day that he used to grow great quantities of them in England, and that the difference between the two is, that the Picotee has fringed edged leaves, while in the Carnation proper the edge of the leaf is smooth like a rose."

The question is asked of Mr. Vick, and he thus replies: "The Carnation and Picotee differ only in the arrangement of the color, or markings. The distinction is made by florists, and is of course arbitrary. Seeds saved from one plant, may produce both Carnations and Picotee, or even from the same seed-pod. In an old work in our possession, the distinction is as stated, but for long years any flower with an irregular edge has been considered unworthy of propagation. The Carnation should have broad stripes of color running through from the center to the edge of the petals. The Picotee has only a band of color on the edge of each petal."—Vick's Magazine.

Although Mr. Vick here states that the Carnation should have broad stripes of color, neither he, nor any other florist makes this distinction, but call pure white, and pure red Carnations, just as freely as those that are striped.

There are two classes of Carnations, and thousands of varieties. The class of Perpetual Bloomers are called Monthly and Tree Carnations. The Garden Carnations are hardy, and can be left in the garden during winter by giving them a covering of leaves, straw, or evergreen boughs. They are easily raised from seed. Sown in June or July, will make good robust plants before frost, which will bloom the following summer. Some of them will be single, perhaps, and these can be removed. Those of superior merit may be multiplied by layering. This method is to select good healthy shoots that have not bloomed, and make a cut midway between two joints. First cut half way through the shoot, then make a slit lengthwise to a joint. Remove the earth a few inches in depth, and press the branch down so that this slit will open, and then cover with the soil. Roots will form where the cut was made, and thus a new plant will be formed, which can be removed in the autumn or spring. Midsummer is the best time to do this, and by adopting this method good, healthy plants are secured. The plants should be well watered a day or two before layering is commenced, and immediately afterward—then only occasionally. They are frequently propagated by cuttings, which can be rooted in wet sand, or in light sandy soil.

PERPETUAL BLOOMERS,

Or Monthly Carnations, can be easily obtained of the florists for summer or winter blooming; the former purchased in the spring, and the latter in the autumn. If one raises their own stock, it is not best to allow those to bloom much during the summer that are wanted for winter flowering. It is well to sink the pots in a good sunny place in the garden, and when they run up and show signs of bedding, cut back the stalk so that it may become more compact and branchy, then the buds in the late autumn or winter, will be much more numerous. The best for winter blooming are La Purite (carmine), President de Graw (white), Peerless (white, striped with pink) and Peter Henderson, of the well-known varieties. Of those of recent introduction, Lady Emma is said to be excellent. One florist says that "it is destined to be one of the leading winter-blooming Carnations. From my bed of one thousand plants in the green-house throughout December and January last, I plucked more blooms than from any other variety occupying the same space." It has proved excellent also for a bedding pink. Its color is a rare shade of crimson scarlet; the flower is of medium size, full and double, and never bursting down the side. Lord Clyde has for three years proved to be an excellent winter bloomer. It is of a very robust growth, like its parent the Edwardsii, but of a more dwarf, low-flowering habit. The ground-work is white, thickly striped with carmine, and a frequent blotch of maroon; very floriferous, each stem bearing from six to eight flowerets. Lydia is another of the recent novelties, and is very handsome. Flowers very large and intensely double, of a rich rosy, orange color blotched and flecked with carmine. Crimson King is one of the largest Carnations, very full, bushy habit, and robust, color crimson-scarlet. A pure bright scarlet is rare; when therefore, Firebrand, a novelty of 1880, was announced as a bright scarlet, it produced quite a sensation. It is very highly commended by those who have seen it. Grace Wilder, Princess Louise and Fred Johnson, are new hybrid seedlings now offered for the first time to the public.

There was quite a discussion in the Gardener's Monthly of last year as to the best pure White Carnation. In the August number, Mr. E. Fryer of Delaware writes: "The varieties called Peter Henderson, sent out by Nanz and Neuner I have found to be the best white I have yet grown for winter bloom. It is a stronger and better bloomer than de Graw, its only drawback being that it runs up high like La Purite. Snowdon is a true dwarf, pure white, and if it proves a good winter bloomer, will probably supersede all other whites, the flower being of fair size and very fragrant. Bock's Seedling, Charles Sumner, I have grown the past winter. The flower is of an enormous size, but it invariably bursts before opening, and is a dull unattractive color. Waverly I have also grown last winter—a splendid variety, rich crimson scarlet; the color was no way exaggerated as represented in the Monthly a year ago; produces a fair average of flowers to the plant, flowers selling readily at ten cents each. I think this the most useful color to the commercial florist.

"I still cling to the old carmine La Purite, which for quantity of bloom, size of flower and general good qualities, I think has not been beat by any of the newer varieties for winter bloom." Mr. Peter Henderson, one of the leading florists, places Snowdon above all other white Carnations, its dwarf habit making it specially desirable.

Florist's Pinks are more dwarf than the Carnations, flowers very double, clove scented, and are of various shades of maroon, carmine, crimson and rose interlaced with white.

THE ORIGIN OF THE FLORIST'S PINK

The Gardener's Chronicle gives the following interesting account of the origin of this class: "It may be interesting to record the fact, published in an old number of the Floricultural Cabinet, that the first Pink worthy of notice was raised in the year 1772, by Mr. James Major who was then gardener to the duchess of Lancaster; previous to that there were but four sorts, and those of very little note, being cultivated as only common border flowers. Mr. Major having saved some seed in 1771, he reared several plants, which, blooming the next season, one of the number proved to be a double flower with laced petals, at which he was agreeably surprised, although he considered it as being only in embryo, and the prelude to still further advance to be developed at some future period, which is now verified by the rapid strides this beautiful flower made in size and quality during the years which followed. Mr. Major informed the writer of the foregoing remarks that he made his discovery known to a nurseryman or florist and was offered the sum of ten guineas for the stock of his new Pink; but, acting on the advice of his friends, he declined to sell, and set to work instead and increased the stock with a view of offering it in sale to the public. It was sent out to the public at half a guinea a pair (for it has long been a custom of offering Pinks in pairs, a custom which is continued to this day), under the name of Major's Duchess of Lancaster, the orders for which amounted to £80. It is recorded that one individual ordered as many as twenty pairs, which was considered in those days an unusually large number. It would be interesting to have a bloom of Duchess of Lancaster to compare with the fine double varieties of the present day. We appear to have come to something like a pause in the matter of Pink production as the flowers are now very large and full, and the lacing is as perfect as can well be conceived."