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glass of white wine
300ml whole milk
75ml double cream
6 tbsp anchovy breadcrumbs (see here (#litres_trial_promo))
2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Take the mullet out of the fridge, put it on a plate, season with a little salt and leave to reach room temperature.
2 Bring a large saucepan of well salted water to a rolling boil. Add the sliced broccoli stalk and boil for a couple of minutes, then add the florets and boil for another 3 minutes, until tender, adding the leaves for 30 seconds before you drain. Drain the broccoli and toss it into an oiled roasting tray. Squeeze over a little lemon juice and scatter over the sliced chilli.
3 Return the pan to the hob and heat the olive oil over a medium-high heat. Slide in the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, rosemary and diced chilli and fry for a few minutes, until the anchovies have melted into the oil.
4 Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
5 Tip the flour into the oil and stir quickly to form a paste or roux, let it cook for a minute or two, until it smells nutty, then add the white wine and cook, stirring, until smooth. Now, slowly add the milk, whisking continuously, and cook for 5–8 minutes, until the sauce has thickened, breaking up any lumps with the whisk. Add the cream and whisk to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper and pour the sauce over the broccoli. Scatter over the anchovy breadcrumbs and pumpkin seeds. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes, until bubbling. Remove from the oven and leave to rest while you cook your mullet.
6 Heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the lemon zest and thyme leaves, stirring for a few seconds. Slide in the fish and pan-fry, basting them with the warm oil, for about 2 minutes on each side, until the flesh is opaque and cooked through. Serve with the gratin.
Sri Lankan-style beetroot curry
Serves 4
The beetroot curry from the second night of our Sri Lankan honeymoon has been obsessively recreated in our kitchen ever since. Deep purple, rich with coconut and the earthy, fragrant, smoky flavours of Sri Lankan curry powder, roasted to bring out extra flavour in the spices, it’s a favourite meal for when vegetarian and vegan friends are round. Sri Lankan curries centre around seasonal vegetables cooked with black mustard seeds, fresh curry leaves, roasted curry powder and, crucially, fresh coconut: its luscious oil, reviving water and rich, luxurious cream, which are all added at different stages. A tin of good-quality coconut milk and dried curry leaves make perfectly reasonable substitutes for fresh, but it is worthwhile making the roasted curry powder (see here). This dish is adaptable to almost any vegetable glut– swap beetroot for cauliflower, parsnip or courgette, even runner beans in summer. Serve with black or basmati rice, Tomato, Coconut and Spinach Dahl (see here) and Coconut Sambol (see here).
400g raw beetroot, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp red chilli powder
2 tsp sea salt
2 tbsp coconut oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
handful of fresh curry leaves (or 2 tsp dried curry leaves)
½ red or white onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
⅔ green chilli, thinly sliced
1 tomato, finely chopped
1 tbsp Roasted Curry Powder (see here (#litres_trial_promo))
200ml coconut milk
cooked black or basmati rice, to serve
1 Put the beetroot in a bowl with the fenugreek, chilli powder and 1 teaspoon of the salt and mix by hand.
2 Heat a non-stick frying pan or wok (with a lid to hand) over a medium-high heat. Add the coconut oil and black mustard seeds and fry until they start to sizzle and spit, then add the curry leaves, swirling them around the pan with a wooden spoon to infuse the oil. Now, slide in the onion, garlic, green chilli and the remaining salt. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes, until the onion is starting to colour, then add the beetroot and fry for a couple of minutes, stirring to combine it with the contents of the pan.
3 Add the tomato and roasted curry powder and fry for a couple of minutes, until the tomato is starting to break down and release its juice, then add the coconut milk, stirring to combine. Cover and cook, stirring every now and then, for 10–15 minutes, until the beetroot is tender and cooked through and the curry is glossy and reduced. Remove from the heat and serve with rice and yoghurt flatbreads (see here (#ulink_ac2ae4e4-1032-5e6b-9a72-d797f64cbbed)), spinach dahl and coconut sambol on the opposite page.
Tomato, coconut and spinach dahl
Serves 4
Frugal, nourishing and brilliantly flavourful, this dahl uses two kinds of lentil for added texture, and is vegan, so everyone can enjoy it. Before I started making my own, I always imagined dahl took hours and hours to cook, but if you soak the lentils ahead, it’s actually so quick to make. It’s perfect with beetroot curry (opposite) but is also great with a fried egg, roasted cauliflower or broccoli, some fried smoked tofu or aubergine on top.
100g split red lentils
50g split yellow or green lentils
1 tsp salt, plus a pinch
1 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
handful of fresh curry leaves (or 2 tsp dried curry leaves)
½ red onion, diced
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tomatoes, cut into wedges
5 tbsp creamy coconut milk (fresh or tinned)
2 handfuls of baby spinach leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Soak the lentils together in a bowl of water for a couple of hours, then rinse, drain in a sieve and place in a saucepan. Cover with cold water (about a finger’s tip above the level of the lentils), add the teaspoon of salt and the ground turmeric and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10–15 minutes, until tender but still holding their shape.
2 Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil in a frying pan or wok over a medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds and fry until they start to sizzle and pop, then add the curry leaves, onion, cumin, garlic and pinch of salt and cook for a few more minutes, until the onion starts to colour. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the tomatoes have collapsed and given up their juice.
3 Add 4 tablespoons of the creamy coconut milk and spinach to the dahl and simmer for another 3 minutes, then pour in the contents of the tomato pan, along with the final tablespoon of coconut milk. Stir, taste, season with salt and pepper and serve or keep warm by covering with a tea towel.
Coconut sambol
Serves 2–4
Heaped on the side of the plate and dusted onto every mouthful of curry, this spicy condiment, based on Sri Lankan pol sambol, is at once fiery, tangy with lime juice and cooling with creamy coconut. It can be made ahead and kept in the fridge.
½ red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
½ red onion, finely chopped
¼ tsp sea salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
pinch of dried chilli flakes
4 tbsp desiccated coconut or fresh coconut
juice of 1 lime
1 In a pestle and mortar, grind the chilli, red onion, salt, pepper and dried chilli flakes together until well combined and the onion releases some juice.
2 Add the coconut and grind again, then add the lime juice and mix well. Taste and season further with salt and lime if needed. Store in the fridge.
Squishy aubergine, crispy chickpea and broccoli salad
with homemade ferments
Serves 2
Something magical happens when salted aubergine is fried in plenty of oil – the aubergine at once sucks it up, creating a silken, creamy inside, while the outside of the flesh caramelises and browns, making something deeply savoury and utterly addictive. Paired with nutty roasted broccoli, cooling labneh and crispy spiced chickpeas, with an array of homemade ferments to cut through the richness of the aubergine and tahini dressing, this salad has it all. The inspiration for this dish came from one of my favourite local restaurants, The Good Egg in Stoke Newington, which specialises in Israeli food and serves ‘Sabih’ – a popular Israeli sandwich of fried aubergines and boiled eggs stuffed into pitta bread. Add boiled eggs to this to beef it up, or lose the labneh to keep it vegan.
1 large aubergine, cut into 1.5-cm slices
1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 × 400g tin chickpeas, drained
½ head of broccoli, broken into florets, including leaves
3 tbsp rapeseed, olive or vegetable oil
pinch of dried chilli flakes
1 tsp smoked sweet paprika
handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves
handful of dill fronds
handful of mint leaves
1 tsp sumac
150g Labneh (see here (#litres_trial_promo))
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
20g preserved lemon, deseeded (shop-bought or (see here (#litres_trial_promo)))
1 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp water
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp honey
1 tsp salt
1 garlic clove
½ tsp cumin seeds or ground cumin
1 tbsp good-quality tahini
To serve
1 tbsp Fermented Turnips (see here (#litres_trial_promo)), drained
1 tbsp Pink Pickled Onions (see here (#litres_trial_promo)), drained
1 tbsp Fermented Green Chillies (see here (#litres_trial_promo)), drained
2 toasted pitta breads
1 Place the aubergine slices in a sieve over the sink or a bowl and scatter the sea salt all over. Leave it to sit and drain the moisture from the aubergine for about 30 minutes.
2 Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Dry the chickpeas with a clean tea towel and tip them into a roasting tray. Add the broccoli, broccoli leaves, 1 tablespoon of the oil, chilli flakes, smoked paprika and some salt and pepper and toss together. Roast in the oven for 25–30 minutes, until the chickpeas are really crispy and the broccoli is crispy at the edges but tender when cut into.
3 Meanwhile, wipe off any excess water from the aubergine with kitchen paper, then heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a heavy-based frying pan or skillet over a medium-high heat. Once the oil is shimmering hot, add the aubergine slices and fry for 4–5 minutes on each side, until nicely browned on the outside and squishy in the middle. You may need to add a little more oil as you go. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and set aside.
4 To make the dressing, put all the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and blitz until you have a loose but emulsified dressing.
