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Scallops with black pudding and apple puree (#litres_trial_promo)
Spicy mussels with coconut and lime (#litres_trial_promo)
Deep-fried cod cheeks in beer batter (#litres_trial_promo)
Pigeon with fried green cabbage and almonds (#litres_trial_promo)
Roast turkey with Guinness glaze (#litres_trial_promo)
Breaded turkey with spinach, walnuts and honeyed parsnips (#litres_trial_promo)
Beef fillet with bacon, cep purée and Jerusalem artichokes (#litres_trial_promo)
Braised oxtail with beer and red wine (#litres_trial_promo)
Beef and shallot hotpot (#litres_trial_promo)
Sliced duck breast with winter stir-fry (#litres_trial_promo)
Honey-glazed quail with beetroot, apple and hazelnut salad (#litres_trial_promo)
Breaded pork chops with celeriac purée and herb spätzle (#litres_trial_promo)
Pork loin with sherry-roasted parsnips and chestnuts (#litres_trial_promo)
Mango, coriander and apple chutney (#litres_trial_promo)
Spiced apple chutney (#litres_trial_promo)
Caramelised pear and almond strudel (#litres_trial_promo)
Caramelised quince and Cox apple tart (#litres_trial_promo)
Christmas pudding ice cream with satsumas and caramel sauce (#litres_trial_promo)
Four-minute figgy pudding with custard (#litres_trial_promo)
Hot spiced cranberry punch (#litres_trial_promo)
Stocks, sauces and dressings (#litres_trial_promo)
French dressing (#litres_trial_promo)
Vinaigrette (#litres_trial_promo)
Mint sauce (#litres_trial_promo)
Creamed horseradish (#litres_trial_promo)
Mayonnaise (#litres_trial_promo)
Quick Hollandaise sauce (#litres_trial_promo)
Tartar sauce (#litres_trial_promo)
Chicken stock (#litres_trial_promo)
Fish stock (#litres_trial_promo)
Vegetable stock (#litres_trial_promo)
Supplier list (#litres_trial_promo)
Acknowledgements (#litres_trial_promo)
Index (#litres_trial_promo)
Copyright (#litres_trial_promo)
About the Publisher (#litres_trial_promo)
Introduction (#ulink_8b950f30-1ac8-522b-9264-f580d59aab9c)
“It’s all in a season.” That’s what my granddad used to say to me. A keen gardener, he would to take me to his allotment and greenhouse whenever I went to visit. That was my first real insight into fresh food and where it comes from – before that it had just been microwaved jacket potatoes or steak with onion rings from a Berni Inn. So, I’m sure it was there – right there – aged five, that the seeds were planted in my mind, and I knew I was going to be a cook.
Many people in the UK grow up in urban areas with little or no awareness of where their food comes from and when it is actually in season. In my opinion, this is mainly down to the supermarkets offering the same food week-in, week-out. But the seasons are the planet’s natural cycle and they exist for a reason, so it makes no sense to try and beat them. Think of each changing season as ‘out with the old and in with the new’, welcome the next lot of produce and don’t go searching for out-of-season food. There are so many good reasons to eat what we produce locally, the obvious ones being to support the British farmers, to reduce CO
emissions from transport, and above all else to get the best possible taste. You only have to try Jersey Royals or British strawberries to understand what I mean.
In a country obsessed with cheaper and cheaper food, we should take a step back and re-assess. If we want great food on our plates we have to be willing to pay for it. I’m not saying it has to be expensive – we’re still talking pence, not pounds and, in fact, food is at its cheapest when in season – even luxury foods like asparagus. Things are already changing for the better, with people learning more about food from books and TV programmes and paying closer attention to what they are eating. But more can still be done. We just need to get out of the habit of expecting what we want whenever we want it. It has always been my mission to champion the food that’s on our doorstep, and this is exactly the food I cook at home, in my own kitchen.
Those who have their own garden or allotment will always have access to the utmost in fresh produce. They will also know that it’s a great teaching tool for young and old alike, and that growing your own food can be a source of much satisfaction. Most importantly, if we eat seasonal food it will be at its cheapest because of its abundance, and the flavour will be at its best. This book is all about celebrating this island of ours, and the food that grows on it, and the best way I can get you excited about cooking this way in your own home is to give you the recipes I cook in my own throughout the year.
Enjoy,
James
Spring (#ulink_c63fcb6f-67ee-54ce-9640-4c8f101590ec)
Radishes • Asparagus • Spring onions • Leeks Jerusalem artichokes • Spinach • Elderflowers Rhubarb • Parsley • Lamb • Sea bass • Salmon
Spring brings a garden to life with the promise of delicious crops to come. In Britain we can enjoy seasonal produce such as wild garlic, Jerusalem artichokes and watercress. Radishes and spring onions push up through the soil and elderflowers fill the hedgerows. Sea bass and salmon are a real treat for seafood lovers, while for meat eaters the end of the season brings with it succulent spring lamb. And I wouldn’t be a true Yorkshireman if I didn’t mention the best bit of all – rhubarb! Harvest from the garden or enjoy the tender pink forced variety, still available at this time of year.
Spring onion potato cakes with fried duck eggs (#ulink_3a8447e5-a58e-5adc-bd64-266cd36be393)
Serves 4
Vegetarian
4 large floury potatoes, peeled and quartered
½ bunch of spring onions, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped chives
110g (4oz) flour, for dusting
150ml (5fl oz) olive oil
110g (4oz) butter
4 duck eggs
200g (7oz) watercress
50ml (2fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
20ml (¾fl oz) white wine vinegar
Salt and black pepper
Potato cakes are excellent as a starter or as a filling snack. They can be prepared in advance and kept in the fridge until needed. Duck eggs are a Saturday Kitchen favourite. Cook them just like hens’ eggs; however, they’re too rich to use in baking.
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes, then drain and return to the pan. With the pan on a heatproof surface, mash the potatoes well, then transfer to a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Mix in the spring onions and chives and divide the mixture into eight balls.
Lightly dust a work surface with flour, place a potato ball on it and shape into a round, flat cake about 1cm (½in) thick and 5cm (2in) wide. Repeat with the rest of the potato and place the finished cakes in the fridge for about an hour to firm up.
Add the olive oil to a non-stick frying pan, dust the potato cakes with flour and fry over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes on each side. Depending on the size of the pan, you may have to cook them in batches.
While the potato cakes are cooking, melt the butter in another non-stick frying pan, set over a medium heat, and once it is hot and bubbling, crack the duck eggs into the pan and cook them until the edges are crispy but the centres remain soft.
Dress the watercress with the extra-virgin olive oil and the vinegar and season with salt and pepper, to your taste. Place 1–2 potato cakes on each plate, top with a fried egg, drizzle with the leftover butter from the egg pan and serve with some watercress on the side.
Cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with bacon (#ulink_319e7d8e-a6fb-59a2-8d2d-2f68ec67c117)
Serves 4
300g (11oz) Jerusalem artichokes
1 large shallot
1 small potato
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
500ml (18fl oz) Vegetable Stock (see page 218)
3 rashers of smoked streaky bacon
110ml (4fl oz) double cream
Salt and black pepper
Crusty bread, to serve
Jerusalem artichokes are the roots of a plant related to the sunflower. They come into season very early in spring, sometimes even earlier, at the tail end of winter. Despite having the same name, the globe artichoke comes from a completely different plant and isn’t in season until the summer. Jerusalem artichokes make excellent soup; I also love them in purées, salads or simply sautéed.
Peel the artichokes, shallot and potato and chop into 1cm (½in) cubes. Set a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Tip in the vegetables and fry gently for 2–3 minutes, without browning.
Add the garlic and pour in the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and cook for 8–10 minutes or until the artichokes and potato are cooked through and soft.
Meanwhile, heat the grill to high and grill the bacon on both sides until crispy, then set aside. Once cool, cut into pieces.
Add the cream to the soup, bring back up to the boil and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, then pour the soup into a blender and puree until smooth. Alternatively, puree the soup using a held-held blender.
Return the soup to the pan, reheat gently and add salt and pepper, to taste. Pour the soup into bowls and sprinkle with small pieces of the bacon. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and serve with fresh crusty bread.
Frisée, radish and orange salad (#ulink_d7e8590f-0b3b-524a-ae1a-64bfd8ed4ca1)
Serves 4
Vegetarian
3 oranges
½ head frisée lettuce
4 radishes, sliced
½ bunch of chives, in 2.5cm (1in) lengths
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
This refreshing salad makes a great accompaniment to fish, especially smoked salmon. The outer leaves of frisee lettuce can be bitter, so use the inner leaves only.
Zest two oranges, then peel and break the segments into a large bowl. Add the lettuce leaves, radish slices and chives.
To make the dressing, put the zest in another bowl with the juice of the third orange and the vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Pour the dressing over the salad, toss the leaves to coat evenly and serve immediately.
Bibb lettuce salad with radishes (#ulink_e0f969f5-bdb6-5426-91d8-457db3990013)
