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Brunoise is a method of chopping in which the vegetable is first julienned (see above) and then turned 90 degrees and sliced again, producing cubes or dice with a side length of no more than 3mm (1/8in). The cubes should be consistent in size and shape, to create an attractive finish. Common vegetables to be brunoised are leeks, turnips and carrots. The diced vegetables are blanched briefly in salty boiling water and then submerged in ice water for a few seconds to set the colour. The brunoise is often used as a garnish – for example, scattered on a consommé (a type of soup).
7. Preparing carrot for julienne
8. Cutting julienne strips
9. Chopping into brunoise cubes
Choosing Meat
A good butcher is invaluable; a shop run by helpful, knowledgeable staff inevitably means they care about the meat they stock and will have treated it properly. They should be able to advise you about cooking times and recommended methods as well as prepare joints and steaks to your requirements.
Meat should always look and smell fresh. A bright red or pink doesn’t necessarily indicate freshness. Instead, look for a good, clear colour; although bear in mind that it will darken naturally on exposure to air. Beef should be well hung for a better flavour. Look out for labels stating that the meat has been ‘dry aged’. This means that 30 per cent of the moisture has been removed and as a result the beef should be firm to the touch.
Any fat should be creamy white; if it’s yellow (except for some very specialist breeds), the meat is probably past its prime. Look for a smooth outer layer of fat, if appropriate to the cut, and a fair amount of ‘marbled’ fat distributed throughout the meat; this will keep it moist during cooking and add flavour.
Always look for a neat, well-trimmed piece of meat, with sinew removed. Splinters of bone and ragged edges indicate poor butchery. Joints and steaks should be of uniform thickness so that they cook evenly.
Minced meat is best eaten on the day of purchase. Larger joints, chops and steaks will keep for 2-3 days. Lean cuts will keep for longer as it is the fat that turns rancid first. If in doubt, smell it – ‘off’ meat will have an unpleasant odour and a slimy surface.
I always remove meat from its original wrapping and then put it, wrapped in fresh cling film, on a plate in the fridge to prevent blood dripping through the fridge shelves. Remember to always store raw meat away from cooked foods to prevent cross-contamination. As a general rule, remove meat from the fridge 30 minutes to 1 hour before you intend to use it. This allows it to relax and return to room temperature. Once cooked, rest it once more so that the juices stay in the meat after it is cut. »
In Ireland we are lucky enough to have a Quality Assurance scheme run by Bord Bia, the Irish food board, who are committed to supporting Irish farmers and the industry to produce the safest and highest quality food possible. Bord Bia have tirelessly championed Irish meat abroad and have been responsible for allowing artisan businesses to blossom and expand under their watchful eye. Look out for their quality mark- a shamrock with an Irish flag. It guarantees that the meat can be traced back to the farm on which the animal was reared.
Meal Planning
There are many factors to consider when planning a menu and it may seem a difficult and daunting task, especially when tackling it for the first time. Begin by thinking about the people you are cooking for and what type of dishes they might enjoy. I like to give people one ingredient that perhaps they haven’t tried before. However, it is important to think about availability, to make sure that you don’t spend too much time running about trying to find particular ingredients. Always check the dietary requirements of your guests to make sure that you are catering for everyone. That said, I often make an extra dish or two, just in case there’s an allergy or food dislike that I’m not aware of.
For the best flavour, choose your dishes based on seasonality; if you are unsure, visit your local farmers’ market and ask the growers what produce is at its best.
Think about which dishes can be made in advance or even prepared and frozen beforehand. When entertaining at home I aim to have at least one course made in advance – usually the dessert. Many dishes can also be prepared up to a certain stage and then kept covered in the fridge until needed. Just make sure that you allow everything to come back to room temperature before cooking or serving it.
Try to get a good balance in your menu and avoid overlap ingredients. It is also important not to make too many of the dishes overly rich and heavy; although they will be delicious, your guests will start to struggle. » Devise a time plan for the evening and make a note of how long different things need in the oven. This stops you from becoming flustered once your guests arrive and allows you to enjoy the evening and take part in the chat!
If you are nervous, perhaps try out the dishes on close friends and family first. The less pressure you have on your shoulders the better, and the more likely everyone is to have a good night. Once you have mastered a dish, then you can build on it and take it to the next level. The most important thing to remember when entertaining is to relax and enjoy it!
10 Chef’s Tricks
Like anything else, cooking takes patience and practice. Even though I’ve been cooking for years, I’m always discovering new ways to make my job that little bit easier, or working out how to fix things when they go wrong. Here are ten of my most useful tips and secrets.
If you taste a casserole, soup or sauce and it is too salty, try adding a handful of raw potato cubes, and allow them to cook over a gentle heat. They will soak up the excess salt and can then be removed with a slotted spoon before serving.
To get the fat to separate instantly from delicious roasting juices, add a handful of ice cubes, then quickly skim off the fat that rises to the top. This method works best if you pour the juices into a heatproof jug first.
Cover large joints of meat with foil, shiny side inwards, before cooking to prevent them from over-browning while in the oven.
I normally fry meat and fish in a mixture of oil and butter as the butter gives flavour and the oil stops the butter from burning.
If your homemade mayonnaise begins to split or curdle, try adding a tablespoon of warm water and give it a good whisk.
If a béchamel sauce becomes lumpy, simply blitz with a hand-held blender until smooth.
Once cooked, quickly refresh pasta under cold running water to prevent further cooking. This is particularly important when making a pasta salad or gratin.
To prevent a pastry case from shrinking away from the sides of the tin while cooking, try to leave the pastry-lined tin in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before putting in the oven. It is also worth being gentle when rolling out, and don’t overstretch the pastry when lining the tin.
When blind baking pastry, I prefer to use foil to line the case rather than baking paper, because you end up with a more even light golden finish. Lightly oil the shiny side of the foil, place it oiled side down on to the pastry and fill with baking beans. Bake for 15-20 minutes.
To make your own vanilla sugar, rinse any used vanilla pods and stick into a jar of caster sugar, then set aside for a couple of weeks before using. (I always buy my vanilla from a website called www.vanillabazaar.com.)
Glossary
Have you ever come across a cooking instruction that you’re not sure about? There are so many terms and techniques in cooking, and not all recipes explain them in detail. But don’t be put off cooking a dish because the recipe uses specialist language – in this glossary I’ve explained some of the most important words and phrases that you’ll need to know.
Al Dente The texture of properly cooked pasta, vegetables and risottos. Literally ‘to the tooth’ (in Italian), it describes the slight resistance in the food when bitten.
Baste To spoon or brush a liquid (such as dripping from the pan, butter, fats or a marinade) over foods during roasting or grilling, to keep moist.
Blanch To parboil by immersing in rapidly boiling water for a few seconds or minutes. Normally used for vegetables such as French beans, sugar snap peas and mangetout. This helps to retain colour and flavour.
Braise A slow cooking method used for cuts of meat that are too tough to roast. It is also good for some vegetables. A pan or casserole with a tight-fitting lid should be used so that very little liquid is lost through evaporation. The meat is first browned, then cooked on a bed of roughly chopped vegetables (often called a ‘mirepoix’), with just enough liquid to cover the vegetables. It can be cooked in the oven or on the hob.
Caramelise To heat (under a grill, in a pan or using a chef’s blowtorch) so that the natural sugars in the food burn slightly and go brown. Sugar can also be sprinkled on food to create this effect, as in crème brulée.
Coulis Fruit that is sweetened with sugar and thinned with water, then puréed to form a fruit sauce or decoration for desserts.
Court-bouillon Flavoured liquid used for poaching fish. Made from water and wine or wine vinegar, with herbs and vegetables for flavouring.
Dauphinoise To cook ‘à la Dauphinoise’ means to bake in a slow oven with cream and garlic. A gratin dauphinoise is a classic dish of thinly sliced potatoes cooked with garlic, cream, milk, butter and often Gruyère cheese – rich, but delicious! Serve alongside meat or vegetable dishes.
Deglaze To loosen the sediment from the bottom of a pan by heating a little stock, wine or other liquid, along with cooking juices left in the pan after roasting or sautéing meat, and stirring with a wooden spoon.
Dice To cut into very small cubes of similar size and shape.
Dredge To coat food with flour or another powdered ingredient.
Flambé To flavour a dish with alcohol, usually brandy or rum, which is then ignited so that the actual alcohol content is burnt off, leaving the flavour behind. This can be done with a lighter, although chefs tend to simply tilt the pan and use the flame of the gas! Take great care!!
Fold To gently blend two mixtures, releasing as little air as possible. Cut through the mixture with a spatula or whisk, from bottom to top, rotating the bowl constantly, until thoroughly mixed.
Fondant A classic, restaurant method of cooking potato, producing a deliciously rich and buttery potato dish. Also a baked dessert which is cake-like on the outside but soft in the centre.
Gelatine An unflavoured substance that gives body to mousses and desserts, and aids setting. Available in leaves or powdered form. Traditional forms are not suitable for vegetarians, though some versions now are. A good alternative is agar agar, which is now more widely available from good health food shops. Simply follow the instructions on the packet.
Hull To remove the tough part of fruit under the stalk (e.g. strawberries).
Marinade / To Marinate A marinade is an acidic-based liquid mixture combining various seasonings, used to flavour and tenderise (particularly meat). To marinate meat, either brush food with the mixture or immerse in it and leave for at least 1-3 hours but preferably overnight.
Poach To cook very gently in liquid kept just below boiling point.
Purée To mash until perfectly smooth, either by hand, by pushing through a sieve or by mixing in a food processor or liquidiser.
Reduce To simmer liquid without a lid until much of the moisture evaporates and the sauce has thickened.
Refresh To dip into cold water or run cold water over food that has been parboiled or ‘blanched’ in hot water. This stops food from cooking any further and keeps a good colour.
Rind Thin outer coloured layer of a citrus fruit’s skin. Can be removed with a special zester, a vegetable peeler or a box grater. Also the outer skin on bacon or cheese, which is normally removed.
Sauté To cook gently in a small amount of oil and butter in a pan over a low heat. The butter gives the flavour and the oil prevents it from burning. Also used to give the food a nice golden brown colour.
Seal To brown food very quickly on all sides to seal in juices and flavour, and to improve appearance and colour.
Seasoning A mixture of three parts salt to one part ground black pepper.
Simmer To keep a liquid or sauce at a point just below boiling, so that small bubbles rise slowly to the surface, breaking before they reach it.
Sweat To cook slowly in oil, butter or a mixture of both.
Syrup Sugar dissolved in liquid (usually water) over a medium heat.
Wilt To cook until limp, especially soft leaf vegetables such as spinach, rocket and pak choi.
Bread (#uc5e0ed0a-ba1b-5501-84c9-6785f822c1ae)
MacNean White Bread
We serve this bread in the restaurant at the start of every meal. The basic recipe can be adapted in many ways – try adding to the dough up to 10 tablespoons of chopped fresh mixed soft herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, basil and chives. Or add 4 tablespoons of Sun-dried Tomato Pesto (see page 208) along with a teaspoon of fennel seeds. Alternatively, spread the dough with Red Onion Marmalade (see page 209) before cooking.
Makes two 450g(1lb) loaves
700g (1 ‘Alb) strong unbleached white flour, plus extra for dusting
2 x 7g sachets of easy blend dried yeast
25g (1oz) caster sugar 1 tsp salt
olive oil, for oiling
1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water
butter, to serve
You can make the dough in a food mixer or by hand. To make in a food mixer, place the flour in the bowl of the machine, and use the the dough hook attachment. Add the yeast, 450ml (16fl oz) lukewarm water, sugar and salt. Switch on the machine and mix until you have a very sloppy dough. Then knead on medium speed for 6-8 minutes until the dough becomes slightly sticky but pliable.
Alternatively, to make the bread by hand, place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the yeast, lukewarm water and salt and mix with your fingers for 2-3 minutes to incorporate the flour, scraping the sides of the bowl and folding the dough over itself until it gathers into a rough mass. Turn the dough out on to a well-floured work surface; lightly flour your hands. Knead for 6-8 minutes using the heel of your hand, until the dough is smooth and pliable. The dough will be very sticky at first; keep your hands and the work surface lightly floured, using a dough scraper if necessary to prevent it from sticking and building up on the work surface. As you continue kneading, the dough will become more elastic and easier to handle.
Shape the dough into a loose ball, then place in an oiled bowl and cover with cling film. Leave to rise for 1 hour until doubled in size.
Lightly oil two 450g (1lb) loaf tins. Knock back the risen dough by punching it lightly with a clenched fist to knock out trapped bubbles, then turn it out again on to a lightly floured surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until it becomes springy and very smooth. Divide the dough into two even-sized pieces and shape each into a rectangle using the length of the tin as a rough guide. Place in the prepared tins, smoothing down the tops and leave to prove (increase in size) for another 10 minutes until slightly risen.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg mixture. Bake for 45 minutes until the loaves are a deep golden brown and sound hollow when tipped out of the tins and tapped on the bottom. Return to the tins and leave for 5 minutes on a heatproof surface, then transfer the bread to a wire rack and allow to cool completely before slicing.
To serve, cut the bread into slices and arrange in a bread basket with a pot of butter. Wrap any remaining bread in cling film and store in a bread bin or dark cupboard for 1-2 days.
1. Dough before being covered
2. After 1 hour: doubled in size
3. Knocking back the dough
4. Kneading with heel of hand
Multi Seed Wheaten Bread
This is the first thing we make every morning at the restaurant. Guests who have stayed overnight can wake up to the smell wafting around the house. The bread is delicious sprinkled with a couple of tablespoons of sesame seeds or sunflower seeds before baking. If you don’t have any buttermilk to hand, add the juice of a lemon to the same quantity of fresh milk and leave overnight before using.
Makes two 900g(2lb) loaves
rapeseed or sunflower oil, for oiling
450g (lib) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
450g (1 lb) coarse wholemeal flour
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
2 tsp salt
100g (4oz) wheat bran
100g (4oz) mixed seeds, such as linseed, sunflower, sesame and poppy seeds
50g (2oz) butter
2 tbsp golden syrup
2 tbsp demerara sugar
1 litre (1% pints) buttermilk, plus a little extra if necessary
butter, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4 and lightly oil two 900g (2lb) loaf tins.
Sift the flours, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl. Tip the bran left in the sieve into the bowl and stir in with the wheat bran and all but 1 tablespoon of the seeds (reserve them for the top). Rub the butter in with your fingertips until evenly dispersed.
Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and add the golden syrup, demerara sugar and the buttermilk. Using a large spoon, mix gently and quickly until you have achieved a fairly wet dropping consistency, making sure there are no pockets of flour remaining.
Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared loaf tins, spreading it evenly and smoothing the tops with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle over the reserved tablespoon of the seeds. Bake for hours until well risen and cracked on the top and so that a skewer comes out clean when inserted in the centre.
