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It is no surprise to me that dogs have for centuries remained the inspiration for words like these. The love, loyalty and companionship that a dog can bring into our lives are unique. And, in theory, they are pleasures that everyone should have the right to enjoy. I write ‘in theory’ because I do not, in all honesty, believe it is a right that should be granted automatically. It is a sad fact of life that there are people who take dogs into their home for all the wrong reasons. The animal sanctuaries and dogs’ homes of the world are filled with the unhappy results of their rash and unthinking behaviour.
It has become a cliche to say that a dog is not for Christmas, it is for life. But it remains true nevertheless. A dog brings with it a set of responsibilities. And no one should take on the task of introducing a dog into their home without weighing up whether they are ready, willing and able to live up to these responsibilities.
There have probably been thousands of books written on the pros and cons of taking on a dog. I do not intend to contribute another one. Having said that, I do have some opinions on the matter. Anyone who is only getting a dog for their children to play with should not get a dog. Dogs and young people can forge the most beautiful relationships of all – but only if the child is taught to respect the dog: they are not toys. Anyone who is getting a dog solely for the purpose of guarding their homes should not get a dog: this is not fair. Anyone who intends getting a dog and then leaving it at home all day should think again, or should make appropriate arrangements for a friend or professional walker to take it out. The dog is a social animal and, if it is cut off from other beings for eight to twelve hours, this is not good for it.
I also believe that all owners must prepare themselves for the reality of dog ownership. It is the easiest job in the world when the dog is a lovable ball of fluff and affection, but what about when it falls ill or misbehaves, fouls the living-room carpet or growls at visitors? And what about heading out into the outside world? Are you prepared to head out on cold, inhospitable winter mornings to walk the dog? Are you willing to become a fully paid-up member of the plastic-bag brigade and clean up after your dog in public? And what about the time it falls ill and you face the potentially astronomical vet’s bills?
Of course, good owners – rather like good parents – think about a lot of these things instinctively. But I would ask even these genuine dog lovers to do a little soul-searching before committing themselves to using my method. It is one thing to understand the challenges of my approach from the human point of view, but what about thinking about this from the dog’s perspective? Dogs are living, breathing creatures with needs and feelings of their own. No one would welcome a deaf person into their family without accepting in advance that they would need to learn some form of sign language. It is no different with a dog. So, for this reason, I would ask you to consider the following:
Are you prepared to go into this with an open mind?
Are you willing to forget and discard all other ‘training’ methods?
Are you prepared to accept the dog’s welfare is paramount?
Are you prepared to work hard and make the sacrifices necessary to understand a language that may prove elusive and confusing at times?
Are you prepared to give the time the dog needs, especially during the early stages when patience and perseverance are of primary importance?
Has the whole family discussed what is going to be required?
If you already own dogs, are you prepared to go through the necessary retraining they will need as well?
These are all tough questions. I make no apologies for posing them, however. I much prefer that people understand their dogs before they learn to love them. I would rather they begin knowing that sacrifices and hard work will be required. Yet, if my years of experience have taught me anything, it is that the effort is far, far outweighed by the rewards that come from having a happy, well-adjusted and relaxed dog.
WHERE TO GET A DOG
To my mind, there are only two sources from which we should buy dogs: respectable, responsible breeders and registered rescue centres or dogs’ homes. There is, I know, a wide range of alternative sources, from pet shops to so-called licensed kennels. Yet I would not recommend that a dog be taken from any of these, for the following two reasons.
Firstly, it is my firm belief that, if at all possible, an owner should be able to see the dog’s mother and gain knowledge of the history of both parents before taking the dog away. This is something I will explain in more detail in a moment. Secondly, it is only through the first two sources that an owner will have any comeback.
As an illustration of this latter point, I often use the example of a close friend of mine, Wendy Broughton. Wendy is a keen horsewoman. It was Wendy who introduced me to Monty Roberts, the Horse Whisperer, from whom I learnt so much. At a horse fair one day, Wendy saw a batch of dogs for sale for £15 each. There were no clues as to where these dogs had come from. Their owners that day had only one interest: making money. Wendy is a soft touch and took pity on one dog in particular. In the two years since then, she has spent more than £2500 on vet’s bills. It turned out the dog was riddled with worms and suffered from a variety of stomach problems.
The crucial point here is that Wendy had no comeback on the people who sold her that dog; she didn’t even get a contact name. This type of trade is sadly on the increase. The growth of ‘puppy farms’ is something I abhor. Often, owners will be allowed no more than seventy-two hours in which to return their dogs.
In contrast, no reputable breeder or rescue centre would sell a dog without guaranteeing that you could return the animal to them if there were a medical problem or if you were, for whatever reason, unhappy with it. Indeed, a good breeder would insist on being on hand to provide advice throughout the dog’s days. The dog cannot lose under this arrangement: if it fits into a happy home, it will enjoy a long and hopefully rewarding life there. If not, it will return to a place where its best interests are safeguarded. Owners who leave themselves with no comeback, are left with no obvious place to return an unwanted dog. Many will, of course, ensure they are given good homes. Sadly, many more will not.
Buying a Puppy
Falling in love with a puppy is the easiest thing in the world. We’ve all experienced the ‘aaah’ factor, that moment when we’ve stared for the first time into the saucer-sized eyes of a sweet, young dog and gone hopelessly gooey. It’s for this reason that I recommend you begin your search for a puppy by steering clear of these charmers to begin with. You know that you are going to fall head over heels in love with the puppy – it’s a given. Far better for you to deal with the realities before beginning the romance, and the best way to do this is by first meeting the family.
Producing a litter of puppies involves collaboration between the human breeder and their dogs. The dogs deliver this new life into the world, but it is the human who must shoulder the ultimate responsibility. I passionately believe that the best way to assess whether a dog is coming from a good home is by meeting both sets of ‘parents’, that is both the human and canine carers.
Given that many breeders go to a stud to begin their litters, it is more than likely that only the mother will be available. The condition of the owner and its home, its personality, temperament and general demeanour will reveal much. Of course, part of the equation is missing if the father is not there. Seeing both will provide the clearest idea possible of the sort of dog their offspring is going to become, nevertheless, a visit to the mother will always be worthwhile.
Just as importantly, the attitude and behaviour of the owner is highly revealing too. If, for instance, the mother is not with its puppies, there are immediate reasons for concern. The growth of puppy farms is one of the more unpleasant facts of life these days. The absence of the mother may mean that the seller is a third party, whose motives are purely to do with money rather than the welfare of the dogs in their protection.
Another good indicator of the quality of the home is the extent to which the seller interrogates all potential new owners. A potential buyer should expect to be grilled by a good breeder: I know, as I always insist on finding out as much as I can about anyone who wants to take one of my puppies into their home. The procedure should be like that of an adoption society being very careful about where it places the children entrusted to its care. Good breeders should be just as diligent in finding a home for the innocent young lives for which they are responsible.
A reputable breeder should want to know everything about the home into which they are considering releasing the puppy. They should want to know what the domestic situation is at home: are there people around all day to look after the dog? Are there many small children in the home? Has the prospective owner owned this type of dog, or indeed any dog, before? Another important question is whether the prospective owner has thought about whether a particular breed is right for their home. Also, are they willing to wait for a puppy? Good breeders do not churn out dogs as if from a production line. If the breeder asks these questions, it should be seen as a positive sign. If they do not, they are probably more interested in making a sale and should therefore be treated with caution.
By the same token, a good breeder should be open to questions from a potential owner. They should be willing to reveal anything and everything about the dog’s history and background, from the details of its parentage and its age, to its favourite food and toys. Again, owners should be wary of anyone who is vague or unhappy about answering these questions. I’ve never been afraid to talk to potential owners in this kind of detail. Indeed, I’ve made very good friends of people who have bought puppies from me.
Potential owners should be particularly careful about checking for hereditary problems within some breeds. Cavalier King Charles spaniels can be prone to heart problems, for instance; Dalmatians can suffer from deafness; long-backed breeds, like basset hounds and dachshunds, have a tendency to suffer from back pain and slipped discs. With German shepherds and Labradors, potential buyers should look out for hip dysplasia, a genetic problem in which the ball-and-socket joint of the hip can be deformed or even nonexistent. It is a condition that is extremely painful and ultimately crippling for dogs that are afflicted and something that good breeders monitor closely. Dogs are x-rayed at the age of one and given a ‘hip score’, which ranges from zero for perfect hips, to eighteen and higher, a mark that indicates the dog should not be used for breeding.
All good breeders work hard to eliminate these problems. But, so as to make informed and appropriate choices, potential owners are well advised to thoroughly research the breeds they are interested in. This is easily done through the Kennel Club or its equivalent organisation, and then through the various breed experts. The importance of this cannot be overstressed. No one goes out to make a major purchase like a new car or a house without checking out the subject thoroughly. When they choose a dog, owners are introducing into the family a new member that will hopefully remain with them for twelve to fourteen years; it is not something to be taken lightly.
Rescue Dogs
Few things can compare with the pleasure that comes from providing a home for a rescue dog – that is, a dog that has been placed in a sanctuary or dogs’ home due to abuse, abandonment or bad behaviour. As someone who has taken in a number of rescue dogs over the years, I can say with my hand on my heart that the rewards both the dogs and I have had have been phenomenal. The joy I have had in seeing tragic dogs given a new hope in life has been immense. And I have to admit it has made me feel good to have provided these dogs with a happy and stable home life they had previously been denied.
Having said that, there is no escaping the fact that rescue dogs can present considerable problems, for self-evident reasons. I often say that there is no such thing as a problem dog, but there are dogs with problems. And rescue dogs, by their very nature, come with more problems than most.
Obviously in such cases it is simply not possible to make the checks that are possible with a new puppy. Any decent sanctuary or rescue organisation should be able to provide you with some details about the dog’s immediate past. Again, vagueness or reluctance to give out details should be regarded with extreme caution, however, the vast majority of sanctuaries and rescue homes are run by people who have an extraordinary dedication to dogs and their welfare. Whatever they know about the dog, they will be willing to tell you: good or bad. It is not in their interest, or that of the dog, to deceive you. The reason many dogs are in a sanctuary is due to violence. I believe, however, that, provided you understand the way a dog’s mind works, it is a calculated risk. For many people, I hope it will remain a risk worth taking.
A Question of Breeding
When I was given my first dog, a Border collie called Shane, there were relatively few breeds readily available to buy. How things have changed. Today, new owners face a bewildering choice of breeds, from exotic Oriental dogs like the Akita and the shih-tzu, to breeds that, until recently, were considered rare, like the Newfoundland or husky.
I am often asked whether particular breeds are more suitable for some people than others. My answer, in general, is that anyone can own any breed provided the dog fully understands its status within the domestic pack. A Yorkshire terrier that believes it is boss may not deliver as bad a bite as a Rottweiler or German shepherd under the same delusion; nonetheless, a bite is a bite. If a dog’s attitude is right, this problem will not arise so the breed of dog is immaterial, yet there are some general guidelines you should bear in mind.
If, for instance, you have a quiet, family lifestyle and are looking for a more relaxed companion rather than an active dog, you might be advised to take a breed that does not need as much exercise, something like a Tibetan spaniel. This does not necessarily mean a smaller dog: Great Danes and Saint Bernards love to lie around. On the other hand, people, like me, who find it hard to justify going out for a walk without a dog for company, are spoilt for choice. German shepherds, Labradors, springer spaniels are all suitable companions.
You have to bear in mind the specifics of your situation. For example, I would not advise someone who is restricted in what they are able to do physically to take on dogs with heavy coats, breeds like the Afghan hound or rough collies. The demands these breeds make in terms of grooming are considerable. It is far better for people in this situation to go for a Labrador, a retriever or a Border collie, dogs that are less ‘high maintenance’ in this respect.
You should also bear in mind the practicalities of training a dog. For instance, with the introduction of basic controls such as the ‘sit’ and ‘heel’, you will be required to do a lot of crouching and bending down to deal with your dog. Older, less mobile, people might want to bear in mind whether they are going to be capable of doing this with a small dog in particular. It is a lot easier to reach the eye level of a German shepherd than that of a lhasa apso.
It is worth stating at this point that it is wrong to associate the size of the dog with the size of the task ahead of its new owner. Big dogs do not necessarily mean a bigger task in terms of training and maintaining them. Indeed, in my experience, some of the kindest, gentlest and easiest-trained dogs have been from the larger breeds. And some of the most uncooperative have been from the smaller ones.
Of course, the best way to understand the type of dog you are acquiring is to study the breed. Each breed was originally evolved, through human intervention, to perform certain functions. Border collies and German shepherds were bred as sheepdogs, and are carers and herders. Beagles were bred to hunt. The Saint Bernard and the Newfoundland were bred as rescue dogs – it is why, in normal circumstances, they are such peaceful, placid dogs. It is only when an emergency arises that they leap into action. By the same token, lhasa apsos and Pekinese were bred as lapdogs. Breeds like this are, literally, custom-made for people who are looking for warmth, affection and companionship above all else. There are dogs to suit everyone.
The one thing I would caution against is getting a dog purely because it is in vogue at a particular time. Certain breeds come into fashion every now and again. I can recall times here in Britain when the Afghan hound and the Old English sheepdog became incredibly ‘trendy’ dogs. The success of the film 101 Dalmatians suddenly made that breed popular. A short time later, when these breeds are no longer de rigueur, the sanctuaries and rescue centres are full of unwanted dogs. In the meantime, unscrupulous breeders will have gone into overtime producing as many puppies as possible, inflicting God-knows-what damage on the breed itself. If someone is going to choose an accessory from a fashion magazine, let it be a handbag, a pair of shoes or a dress – anything but a dog.
EXPANDING PACKS: PREPARING FOR A NEW DOG
The more I have observed and worked with humans and dogs, the more I have come to recognise our shared sense of family values. It is, of course, no accident that dogs possess a pack instinct as deep-rooted as our own. It is one of the reasons why our ancient ancestors forged an alliance with the dog, the first and most important animal to be domesticated by man. I mention it at this point because you must consider this when you expand your pack by introducing new dogs to a home that already has dogs. My method, as I have explained, allows you to position yourself as the leader of that pack. Yet, in situations where you already own two or more dogs, the dogs, too, will have a hierarchy. The natural result when a new dog is introduced into the pack is a situation where the dogs believe a leadership election is about to happen. I will deal in detail with this later on, but for now bear in mind that the introduction of a new dog is something that has to be planned with particular care.
There are many other factors to consider. Mixing breeds, for instance, has to be thought about. A Japanese Akita and a German shepherd will get along together eventually, but there may be a great deal of friction before they settle into a routine together. Introducing a puppy less than nine months old to an existing pack is, in relative terms, a straightforward process. But here, too, you must bear in mind that placing a nine-month-old puppy in a home is the equivalent, in dog years, of introducing a hyperactive twelve-year-old to a human household. People always talk of one dog year being the equivalent of seven human years: in the case of the dog’s first year, however, this is more like sixteen years. Look at it this way: by nine months old, a bitch is physically capable of producing and raising children. Emotionally, however, she is nowhere near ready. You should always bear in mind the effect a newcomer like this might have on the chemistry of your existing pack.
If you already have dogs, I therefore suggest you do two things before expanding the pack. Firstly, I recommend you introduce my method to the existing dogs first. This makes obvious sense on every level: the influence the existing dogs have on their new companion will be immense. If they have learned to live a fulfilling life by accepting you as their leader, the chances of the potentially disruptive newcomer accepting the status quo are hugely increased.
Secondly, I also advise you to introduce the new dog to its prospective pack as soon as possible. The ideal option is to take the existing dogs to the breeder or rescue centre where the new dog is. This has several obvious advantages. In territorial terms, it is neutral ground. The new arrival will also be amongst people who know and can control it in the event of problems. Most importantly of all, if after a few meetings there is clearly a high degree of friction between the old and new dogs, you will have the chance to think again. Once more, you will be able to get a strong idea of whether a refuge is a reputable one or not from their handling of this whole process. Alarm bells should begin ringing if they are reluctant to allow you to bring your dogs to meet the potential family member. The danger signals become overwhelming if the refuge even hints at the sale being cut and dried.
PREPARING THE HOME
A dog does not really care whether its owner lives in a tent or a palace. The criteria it regards as important are more to do with the comfort, safety and quality of life it enjoys rather than the particulars of its surroundings. If only we humans were less materialistic sometimes: as long as a dog is cared for in the right way, it will be happy.
In preparing to put my method into practice, I would advise you to make a few specific provisions around the home. Some of them are obvious, others less so. Each is important if life with a new dog is to get off on the right footing.
Sleeping Quarters
Decide where the dog is going to sleep. It is vital that the dog or puppy has its own space, its own refuge. It must be able to lie down on its side with about three to four inches to spare either side. It should have about the same space when it stretches out lengthwise. I personally like to use dog cages: my dogs seem to enjoy the idea that they have their own secure, enclosed space. I always leave the gate open so they can move freely. They are also perfect for travelling in the car.
A dog does not need to have an expensive basket or kennel of its own; a supermarket cardboard box turned on its side provides a safe, secure space. I always find putting an old jumper in it helps. It provides warmth and cover but has the added advantage over a clean blanket that it also smells of the family.
No-Go Areas
Decide on the no-go areas in the home. There will be areas where you will not want the dog to stray, typically bathrooms and toilets, maybe a study or dining room. You should establish these areas in your mind in advance. Every member of the family should also be aware of the rules: instilling them into the dog will prove that much easier later on.
Gates: With the above in mind, I recommend placing a children’s gate between the kitchen and the hallway. It ensures that the dog does not follow you everywhere, something that is a particular trait with puppies. At the same time, you will be able to keep an eye on the dog’s movements. The only thing to watch out for is that the gaps between the bars are not wide enough for the dog to get its head stuck.
Garden: The garden area will be of vital importance to both you and your dog, not just during the first thirty days but also throughout your lives together. You should ensure that the area is secure and that your dog cannot escape. As with the internal gates, you should also make sure there is no danger of the dog’s head being trapped in fencing. In assessing this, I do warn owners that I have had to extricate puppies from the most unlikely places: don’t underestimate their ability to stick their heads in the tightest spaces!
Basic Needs
It may be stating the blindingly obvious here, but there are still many owners who seem to overlook the most basic practical preparations for the arrival of a new dog. The list that follows is customised to allow you to apply my method immediately.
Feeding Bowls: Two bowls are essential. One is for water, which should be filled with fresh water twenty-four hours a day and should be changed at least two to three times a day. The other is for food. As you will see later, an extra supply of bowls – up to four per dog – may come in useful in applying part of my method.
Collar and Lead: It will be several days before the dog is ready to go on a walk. Before then, however, there will be times when it will be used for heel work inside the house.
Toys: Again, there is no need to go to any extraordinary expense here. For puppies in particular, I find there is nothing better than an old tea towel or blanket, soaked in water, then tied in a knot. It is perfect for young dogs with immature, malleable teeth.
Grooming Brushes: Grooming is an important element of looking after a dog. As well as keeping the dog in condition, it allows you to keep a regular monitor on your animal’s weight, skin condition and general welfare. It is also another means of forging a close personal bond with a dog. Long-haired dogs like cocker spaniels and Old English sheepdogs cannot be left for more than six days without being brushed. The knotted coat that results after this time can be painful and extremely unhygienic. Owners will need a ‘slicker’ brush for these dogs. For smooth-coated dogs, a soft brush will suffice. I also find it useful to use a pair of rubber gloves. They can be perfect for scrubbing particularly tricky areas clean.
First-Aid Kit: In case of emergencies, it is advisable to have a collection of medicines, such things as wound dressings, ointments and ear drops.
Food Rewards: An essential element of the work that lies ahead involves the awarding of tidbits of food. Before your dog arrives, ensure there is a good supply of special treats, things such as reward sticks, meat strips or (my personal favourite) pieces of cheese.
Good, Local Vet: I suggest to all potential dog owners that they spend a little time checking out the vets in their area. It is a good idea to get the dog registered in advance.
MENTAL PREPARATION
By far the most important preparation is that which must go on in your head. Unless you have grasped the central principles of my method, you should not proceed with it. You must be ready to see every situation in the right context: in terms of the dog and its view of its place in the domestic ‘pack’. In addition, you must also make practical preparations for the days ahead.
Never Set Yourself Up for Failure
One important piece of advice I like to get across to owners from the start is that they should never set themselves up for failure. By this I mean that, in the days ahead, there will be some setbacks that you cannot predict – and they are probably going to be related to the particular traits of your dog’s personality. But, at the same time, there are going to be some mistakes that you can avoid through proper, careful planning, for instance, you should always have a ready supply of food reward with you. Try to be prepared for every eventuality that is thrown at you.
Allow More Time
Absolutely central to everything I do is a sense of calm. For this reason, you must be prepared to allow more time for everything; if you are impatient, it won’t happen. You must be ready to put your dog’s needs high on your agenda for a month. You must be ready to put yourself out for your dog. And, throughout this time, you must remember that you are taking into your home a creature whose language and needs are different from yours. Most crucial of all, you must accept that the dog is not going to learn your language – it is up to you to learn the dog’s language. And, for this reason, every grown-up member of the family must take some time to familiarise themselves with the principles of bonding before the process begins.
Think Canine
A good owner should always anticipate their dog’s doubts and questions. You should try to think ahead and recognise the things that a dog is going to find confusing or frightening. For instance, a dog is not being stupid if it recoils when a vacuum cleaner or a dishwasher or washing machine is switched on. I ask people to imagine how they would feel if they didn’t comprehend what they were encountering. They’d want to know whether this was something that was going to cause them harm.
Be Ready, Willing and Mentally Able
Learning my method is akin to learning a new language. Anyone who has had to master this skill will know what a difficult and time-consuming business it can be. They will also know that it requires absolute concentration and commitment, and a mind that is receptive and open to new ideas. It is no different with my method: you must not only be willing and able to learn, you must be mentally ready too. This is why I do not recommend you begin at times of emotional stress. Far better to postpone the introduction of Amichien Bonding until your mind is clear and focused.
I myself was reminded of the importance of mental preparation in the aftermath of the loss of Sasha and Barmie. Their deaths – and the explosive reaction it sparked within my own pack – left me reeling for days. Throughout that time, I knew that I would have to reintroduce all the elements of my method, that I would have to re-establish myself as the unchallenged leader of the pack. The reality was that I was nowhere near ready to do so at that time. My mind was filled with memories of dogs that I had loved and lost over the years. I was in a dream, or nightmare, for most of the next few days. I was angry, hurt and lost.
I was experienced enough by then to know that there was no point in my trying to reapply my method while I was in that state of mind. For the first few days after the fight took place, I simply kept the different factions within my pack separate at all times. I knew how unconvincing I was as a leader. I was being consumed by my human side, there was no place for thinking in the canine terms I needed: it simply would have failed. And I was not going to set myself up for a failure. No one reading this book should take the next step on this journey without being sure they too are willing, able and mentally ready to do so.
PART TWO THE FIRST 48 HOURS (#ulink_18818546-fbf6-5974-b511-98bb92011684)
New Horizons: Settling a New Dog in Its Environment
The road ahead is a long, sometimes difficult, but hopefully richly rewarding one. And for some owners, the first potential wrong turn looms within the first moments of bringing a dog home. Dogs that are already acclimatised and settled into a home will be able to begin the first phase of my method – reuniting after separation – immediately. For dogs that are new arrivals, whether they be puppies, adults or rescue dogs, there is a preliminary hurdle to be overcome. It is vital if the new relationship is to get off to the correct start.
Most of us can vividly recall moments like our first day at school, or our arrival at our first workplace. It is an extremely stressful, daunting and, at times, downright terrifying experience. People are operating according to a set of rules we don’t yet understand. The place is filled with unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells. Imagine someone having to fit into a new environment like this when nobody understands what they are saying. This is the situation a dog faces when it takes its first tentative steps into a new home.
Arriving in a new environment is a traumatic experience for a dog. The most important thing you can do during the first forty-eight hours or so is to make this as trauma-free as possible. And it is imperative that the first minutes of the day are spent allowing the dog to settle into its new environment.
The first thing I recommend you do with a new dog or puppy is that, on arrival at the new home, you immediately take it outside to do its toiletting. When the dog relieves itself as you have asked it to, you should reward it with a tidbit. This should be accompanied with warm words of encouragement, such as ‘Good dog’, or ‘Clean dog’, and perhaps a stroke of the head or nape of the neck area. The key point here is that the first piece of positive association has been achieved within the first few moments in the home. A good start has been made.
The next stage is to allow the dog to get to know its new environment. You should leave it alone and let it explore the areas it is free to roam in. Throughout this time, you should be giving out gently affectionate signs, by which I mean smiles and words of reassurance and kindness. At the same time, you should not be gushing or overaffectionate with the dog. This is particularly important in the case of rescue dogs. These are dogs that have had appalling experiences in the outside world. For understandable reasons, their trust may be much harder to win. The key thing here is to remain kind and calm but to keep a respectful distance too. It may well be that the dog is too nervous to engage in any way during the first few hours, or even days. Do not rush the dog: give it space and time.
Settling a dog down into a new environment may sound straightforward. It is not, I can assure you. As an illustration of the hard work that is sometimes required here, I often draw on the example of Murphy. All dogs need to check out their new home, to sniff out the landscape, if you like. Murphy was more qualified than most for this job. He was a police ‘sniffer’ dog. At work, his role was to locate drugs, explosives and contraband.
I met him while visiting his handler, Teresa, a PC with the West Midlands Police. She had expressed an interest in learning more about my method and I had visited her at her home. Murphy, I discovered, lived in a kennel at the rear of the house. When I wondered why he didn’t live in the house she simply laughed: ‘He’d destroy the place,’ she said. By this, she meant that Murphy was simply too inquisitive. His training had encouraged him to stick his nose in anywhere and into anything suspicious. On the rare occasions he had been allowed in people’s homes, this had led to disaster. He would knock things over and generally leave a trail of destruction behind him. In short, he had no house manners.
I offered to illustrate my work by introducing Murphy to the house. He immediately went berserk, leaping around everywhere. I immediately asked for his lead. While Teresa and I sat down and talked, we studiously ignored Murphy’s high-octane behaviour. Throughout, he remained attached to his lead, which Teresa clung to from her chair. After ten minutes or so, he settled down. At this point, Teresa released him from his lead. The reprieve was short-lived: the moment he began leaping around again, I got Teresa to put him back on his lead. She didn’t scold him or shout at him. She simply remained aloof and acted quickly. This process was repeated four times in all.
The next time Murphy was let off the lead, he simply sniffed around our legs. It was as if he was making his final check of the environment. Soon after that, he lay nicely down at Teresa’s side. It was the final symbolic gesture, the signal that he was now ready to begin living, and learning, there.
It is no surprise that many people have problems integrating new dogs into a home that already has one or more dogs living there. My method will ensure that the human members are elevated to the senior positions within the extended pack, but it is important that you acknowledge the canine pecking order below this. This hierarchy is the most natural thing in the world, and nothing is going to change that.
In many, many cases dogs settle into a natural order with very little trouble indeed. But, make no mistake about it, the process can be hugely competitive and can result in aggressive and potentially violent behaviour. For this reason, I must emphasise how essential it is that the initial, introductory meeting between dogs happens on neutral territory. In an ideal world, I would recommend more than one meeting.
If, for whatever reason, your existing pack is only going to meet the new dog on the day of its arrival, this introduction must be your first task of the day. You must choose a neutral ground, and here you must be careful to avoid places where the existing pack has strong associations. In the past, I have taken new additions to my pack to parks or open spaces, areas where they and my existing dogs have been free to weigh each other up and begin the process of integration in a less charged atmosphere. It requires the assistance of someone else to lead either the existing pack or the newcomer to the spot. Even if this only lasts for half an hour before the new dog arrives home, it can be of huge long-term benefit.
If there is more than one dog in the existing pack, I suggest you introduce these dogs to the newcomer one at a time. Each time this happens, it is vital the two dogs meet on equal status. As the newcomer is going to be on a lead, the existing pack member should also be on a lead. If one dog is being rewarded with toys or treats, then so should the other. The vital thing here is that the two dogs form a new, extended pack. By exuding strong leadership, you should be implanting the idea that the job of Alpha within this pack is already taken. The newcomer will obviously be less well versed in your communication methods than the established dog. Yet the message should begin to seep through just the same: by all means sort out a pecking order amongst yourselves, but be certain that the job of leader is not up for grabs – nor will it ever be.
As you allow the dogs to get to know each other, the key message here is ‘don’t panic’. If the dogs grumble or growl at each other, ignore it until they relax. Ultimately, dogs enjoy each other’s company. Given time and space, a friendship can emerge from the least likely pairing. Throughout this period, it is again important to show the qualities of leadership at all times. So everything should remain calm, and you should keep your head.
It is worth stating that you should adopt a sensible approach towards aggression between dogs here. I have seen people overreact completely to the sight of two dogs squaring up to each other and growling. In human terms, this is no more serious than one person telling another to get out of their sight. It is not the most pleasant situation, but neither is it an excuse for the sort of histrionics I have witnessed in my time. If your dogs do threaten each other, you should act decisively and immediately to remove the instigator. For this reason, I would recommend that the new dog wears a collar while it is being introduced to the pack: it is better to be safe than sorry.
Once a rapport is established, let the dogs move closer together. Eventually, they should come up close enough so that they can play together. This is the most natural thing in the world. Again, remain relaxed and let it happen naturally. The more time the new extended pack spends together in this way, the better. Eventually, however, they will have to head home. The dogs should be transported home together. If the established dog is being reluctant getting into a vehicle, you should put the new dog in first. If the situation becomes tense or confrontational during the journey, the new dog should be moved to another seat. Once at home, the dogs must remain on equal status, each of them on a lead. They should be released in the garden at the same time and, while you keep an eagle eye on them, they should then be left to get to know each other.
There is every chance, of course, that the dogs will not get on immediately. You will have to exercise common sense and flexibility here. I strongly recommend that you should make plans for segregating your dogs at home in the early days. Dogs are quick to assimilate themselves into environments: in most instances, I believe dogs can settle into a new home within forty-eight hours. Yet, given the potentially explosive situation that can arise when a dog is added to an established pack, I ask people to be overcautious. I have certainly found that providing both the newcomer and existing dogs with their own ‘bolt holes’ can prove an invaluable asset in the testing early days.
It is vital that your new dog is allowed to stake out its environment, so, if you are lucky enough to have the space, I recommend you build a separate area – a compound, if you will – in which the new dog can begin its life within the home. It should be given all the time it needs to assimilate to this space. At the same time, use the separate ‘neutral’ area for your existing dogs to continue to get to know the stranger now in their midst – always under close supervision by you. The length of time the extended pack spends together should be increased slowly as the new member is accepted.
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