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One of my favourite summer soups, this makes a wonderful starter for a special occasion and can also be served chilled in hot weather.
SERVES 4
1 onion, chopped
1 potato (about 50z (150g)), peeled and cubed
1 tbsp olive oil
500g (1lb 2oz) asparagus, washed
about 1 litre (1¾ pints) water
1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or a stock cube
4 tbsp single cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large covered saucepan, fry the onion and potato cubes in the olive oil over a gentle heat. Fry for a few minutes, stirring now and again.
Break the tips off the asparagus stems by bending them until they snap. Place the tips to one side. Cut the stems into 2cm (1 in) pieces and add to the pan, along with half the water and the vegetable bouillon. Bring to the boil, then leave to simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until the asparagus is tender.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining water in another pan and cook the asparagus tips until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.
Purée the soup thoroughly and, for an extra-smooth texture, pour it through a sieve, back into the rinsed-out saucepan. Add the cooked asparagus tips together with their cooking water and the cream. Season well with salt and pepper.
Reheat gently before serving; don’t let it boil.
Chilled avocado soup
This beautiful pale green, silky soup is very easy to make. Use avocados that are perfectly ripe but not overly so; they’re just right when they feel slightly soft all over when you squeeze them gently in the palm of your hand. Avoid making this soup in advance; it just needs time to chill in the fridge so that it keeps its bright colour.
SERVES 6
2 large ripe avocados
1 tbsp lemon juice
850ml (1½ pints) ice-cold skimmed milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp chopped fresh chives, to garnish
Halve, stone and peel the avocados and cut them into rough chunks.
Put the chunks into a blender or food processor with the lemon juice and milk and blend very thoroughly until the mixture is silky smooth.
Taste and season well with salt and pepper. Chill in the fridge, with the serving bowls too, if there’s room.
To serve, check the seasoning, as chilling can dull the flavour, then ladle the soup into the bowls and scatter some bright green chopped chives on top.
Beetroot soup
One of my all-time favourite soups, this is a stunning deep ruby-red soup that looks mouth-watering with its white topping of yoghurt or soured cream. It’s wonderful hot, but I particularly like to make it from new-season beetroot in the summer and serve it chilled. I think you’ll have gathered by now that I’m rather partial to chilled soup!
SERVES 4
1 onion, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large potato (about 225g (8oz)) peeled and diced
1 tbsp olive oil
450g (1lb) cooked fresh beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced
1.2 litres (2 pints) stock or water
1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
½ tsp grated lemon rind
TO GARNISH
thick natural Greek yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche
coarsely ground black pepper
Fry the onion gently in the oil in a fairly large saucepan, with a lid on the pan, for about 5 minutes, being careful not to let it brown. Add the potato, stir, then cover and cook gently for about 5 minutes more.
Add the beetroot and stir in the stock or water and the bouillon powder, stock cube or concentrate.
Bring to the boil then cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.
Blend the soup, then return it to the saucepan and flavour with salt, pepper and the lemon juice and just a touch of the grated rind. Reheat gently and serve topped with a spoonful of yoghurt, soured cream or crème fraîche and a scattering of coarsely ground black pepper.
Borsch
You could serve this soup with the little curd cheese tarts on page 272 but it’s also great accompanied by chunks of rye or wholemeal bread and goat’s cheese.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
2 large carrots, diced
2 sticks of celery, sliced
125g (4oz) cabbage, chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 litre (1¾ pints) water or vegetable stock
400g can chopped tomatoes
450g (1lb) cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), peeled and diced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sugar
TO GARNISH
150ml (5fl oz) soured cream or thick natural yoghurt (optional)
chopped fresh dill or chives (optional)
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, carrots, celery and cabbage, stir them in the oil so they glisten, then fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, with the occasional stir.
Pour in the water or vegetable stock and the tomatoes, bring to the boil, cover and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender.
Add the beetroot to the soup and season well with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Bring to the boil again and simmer gently for 3–4 minutes.
Serve the borsch as it is or blend it a little. If you like, top with soured cream or yoghurt and a scattering of chopped dill or chives.
Creamy butter bean soup with croûtons
This soup has a smooth, creamy texture that is complemented perfectly by its crunchy topping of golden-brown croûtons.
SERVES 4
125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 potato, peeled and diced
2 carrots, diced
2 sticks of celery, chopped
1.2ml (2 pints) water or unsalted stock
1 bouquet garni – a couple of sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf tied together
150ml (5fl oz) single cream (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
a few croûtons or cubes of crispy wholemeal toast, to serve
Drain and rinse the beans.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the vegetables and sauté for 7–8 minutes without browning, then add the butter beans, water or stock and the bouquet garni. Simmer gently, half covered, for about 1½ hours or until the butter beans are tender.
Remove the herbs and blend the soup (with the cream, if using). Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.
Reheat gently – don’t let the soup boil – and scatter over the crunchy golden croûtons or crisp wholemeal toast cubes at the last moment.
Butter bean and tomato soup v
I love to use dried butter beans for this, though I’ve given the option of canned, as dried beans are such a joy. You can buy them for practically nothing, keep them in the cupboard until you need them, then work some kitchen alchemy just by gently soaking and boiling, to produce a meal that’s deeply satisfying and full of natural goodness. If you are cooking your own beans, use the cooking water for this soup, with some vegetable bouillon powder for extra flavour.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
225g (8oz) dried butter beans, soaked, cooked until tender and drained, or 2 x 400g can butter beans, drained and rinsed
850ml (15 pints) water or unsalted vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sugar (optional)
chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and fry over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, until softened, but not browned.
