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For me, knowing how to use and get the best from a whole carcass is something that every carnivorous cook should know about. You’ll get the best, most varied eating experience, but vitally it makes the best economic sense – for cooks, butchers and farmers alike.
Generally the slow cook cuts come from the parts of the animal that have to work the hardest – the forequarter (neck, belly, shoulders) and the legs. These tough, sinewy muscles will taste dreadful if they are not cooked correctly, but so too would the finest fillet of beef. Using a moist method of cooking, or cooking these cuts in some well-seasoned liquid – whether it is stock, wine or even water – will work wonders. The liquid will encourage the muscles to relax their tough structure, and the gelatine that this process produces will, in turn, flavour the liquid to make wonderful gravy. Not only do these cuts present tremendous value for money, but they also taste great. It is also worth considering that cuts labelled ‘stewing’ will usually take longer to tenderise than those labelled ‘braising’.
Dried beans still need to be soaked overnight before slow cooking. Dried red kidney beans must also be boiled for at least 10 minutes and drained before cooking to remove their dangerous toxins. Other pulses – such as lentils and canned beans – can be used directly, but will break up with a very extended period of cooking.
Pasta and rice should be added to moist, saucy recipes in the slow cooker about 30–50 minutes before the end of cooking. Baked pasta and risotto dishes also work very well (see Easy Mushroom and Parma Ham Lasagne (#u779e09d9-2746-437a-a092-e157ad407059) and Tomato and Rocket Risotto (#u10ed7514-d870-4c1b-8360-f37a1a3c57d7) for some great ideas).
Dairy products such as milk, cheese, cream and yoghurt tend to break down in the slow cooker after prolonged cooking (over 6 hours). However, they can be used either for a shorter period of time or stirred in at the end (the last hour) of cooking to finish a dish.
1 Light dishes (#u2129ecf2-e087-5e9e-aa31-05fd0e56592b)
Spinach and Lentil Soup (#ulink_d80a8561-a22f-5e73-9730-7b98e8fe87c6)
Spinach and lentil soup
PREPARATION TIME: 15 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 3–4 HOURS
SERVES 4
This colourful, hearty soup is packed with flavour. You can use either chicken or vegetarian stock.
75g (3oz) brown or green lentils
Olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 red onion, peeled and finely diced
1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced
1 × 400g (14oz) tin chopped tomatoes
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf, broken
2 litres (3½ pints) stock
125g (4½oz) baby spinach leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil or basil oil, for drizzling
Wash the lentils in cold water and drain thoroughly. Pour in 1–2mm (
/
in) of olive oil to cover the base of the slow cooker dish.
Using your thumb, press the garlic firmly to bruise it, then add it to the dish. Add the lentils and mix to coat in the oil. Add the onion, celery, tomatoes and herbs and mix together. Don’t season the soup at this stage, as salt will toughen the lentils. Pour the stock over the lentils. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 3–4 hours or until the lentils are tender.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic and herbs. Mix the spinach into the soup and stir until the leaves are just wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Ladle the soup into warm bowls and drizzle with a touch of extra virgin olive oil or basil oil before serving with ciabatta.
FAB FOR THE FREEZER
Leave to cool before transferring to freezerproof containers and freezing for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly before reheating gently on the hob (never in the slow cooker).
Spicy celeriac and apple soup (#ulink_e1821f90-c2f4-5b3b-af86-798f0143923d)
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 4 HOURS
SERVES 6
VEGETARIAN
I absolutely love celeriac raw in salads and remoulade, but here it really benefits from long slow cooking, which coaxes out its characteristic nutty flavour. The warming spices of the curry paste and the tart apple also work well to complete this easy soup.
1 large celeriac, about 1.5kg (3lb 50z), peeled (about 1.3kg/2lb 13oz peeled weight) and cut into 3cm (1¼in) chunks
1 large onion, peeled and cut into 3cm (1¼in) chunks
1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and diced
Juice of 1 lemon
2 vegetable stock cubes
1 tbsp medium curry paste
1 litre (1¾) pints) boiling water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the celeriac and onion chunks in the slow cooker dish. Add the diced apple, then pour over the lemon juice and toss together until everything is coated in the juice.
Place the stock cubes and curry paste into a large measuring jug, then pour over the boiling water and stir to dissolve the cubes. Pour this mixture over the celeriac and top up with more boiling water if the vegetables and apple are not covered with liquid (otherwise the apple with turn brown). Cover with the lid and cook on high for 4 hours or until the vegetables are completely tender.
Remove the slow cooker dish from the heated base and place it on a heatproof surface. Blitz the soup with a hand-held blender until completely smooth (or blend in batches in a food processor). Add more hot stock if you like your soup thinner. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
I ALSO LIKE …
making this soup with parsnips instead of celeriac.
Chicken and lemon soup (#ulink_3cf59fb1-106f-5ead-8e31-eb42d7a3b25d)
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 6½–8½ HOURS
SERVES 4
Slow cooking the chicken on the bone before adding it to the soup gives it a wonderful flavour.
750g (1lb 10oz) chicken wings
1 celery stick, trimmed and finely diced
1 leek, trimmed and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 fresh lemon thyme sprig, plus extra to garnish (or use 1 ordinary thyme sprig)
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (preferably unwaxed)
1 large potato, peeled and cut into small 1cm (½in) cubes
3 tbsp double cream
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken wings, celery, leek, garlic, thyme and lemon zest and juice into the slow cooker dish and mix well. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 2 hours, stirring halfway through cooking.
After 2 hours, carefully pour enough boiling water into the slow cooker dish to cover the chicken and stir to combine. Cover with the lid again and cook on low for a further 4–6 hours (the longer the better).
Strain the chicken and vegetables through a sieve into a large saucepan. Pick over the chicken, discarding any skin or bone but saving the meat, and add the meat to the pan. Bring to the boil over a high heat, skimming with a slotted spoon to remove any remaining skin, sinew or bits of vegetable that have escaped the straining process.
Add the potato to the soup and simmer for 10 minutes or until the potato is tender. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately sprinkled with a few lemon thyme leaves.
I ALSO LIKE …
to use baby pasta or risoni (a type of pasta that looks like large grains of rice, used in soups, salads, stews, stuffings, etc.) instead of potato in this soup.
Thai pumpkin soup (#ulink_0d0e3138-d2b0-56df-8a39-41085375b377)
PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME: 3 HOURS
SERVES 4–6
Butternut squash or pumpkin tastes great in Thai recipes. Here it makes a comforting, smooth soup, which is great for everyday food or as a starter when entertaining.
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) butternut squash or pumpkin, peeled, deseeded and cut into chunks
1 red onion, peeled and diced
2.5cm (1in) piece fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
1–2 tsp red Thai curry paste, or to taste
1 litre (1¾ pints) hot vegetable stock
150ml (5fl oz) coconut milk
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp fish sauce, or to taste
1 tbsp demerara sugar
Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish
Place the butternut squash or pumpkin in the slow cooker dish together with the onion, ginger and curry paste and mix well until the pumpkin is coated. Cover with the lid and cook on high for 2 hours or until the squash is really tender. Remove the slow cooker dish from the base, but leave the slow cooker switched on.
Place the squash or pumpkin and any cooking juices into a food processor and blitz, adding a little of the hot stock to loosen the mixture, until smooth. Gradually add the remaining stock.
Return the mixture to the slow cooker dish and add the coconut milk, lime juice and fish sauce. Place the dish back onto the heated base and replace the lid. Cook for 1 hour or until hot.
Season the soup with more fish sauce and the sugar to taste. Ladle into warm bowls and sprinkle with coriander leaves before serving.
I ALSO LIKE …
cooking this recipe to the end of paragraph 1 and then mixing the squash or pumpkin cubes with all the other ingredients except the stock. It’s great heated through and served with rice noodles.
Split pea and ham soup (#ulink_5ad620a9-b601-5f8a-917f-a180fd520fd8)
PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING
COOKING TIME: 2–3 HOURS
SERVES 4
This easy soup is very warming and tasty – perfect for a cold day or if you’re in need of some real comfort food.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 leeks, white part only, diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
500g (1lb 2oz) green split peas, soaked overnight and drained
